The most accurate Fuel Gauge you will ever find ...

[DEcosse]

.... how you got it . . .

TeeRiver (Dave) 's contact info is in the opening post of thread, JoeSmoe - just send him email.

You don't really need to visit the other site - I just included that link for interest as to how the project developed from its original concept to how it has evolved today. Maybe I confused the situation by directing there and most of that thread is really about the V1 edition, with the V2 only appearing towards the very end. All of the pertinent information for the current FuelBot 2.0 is already included in the opening post of this thread.
I think it's Dave's intention to create a new dedicated FuelBot 2.0 thread, with some video too!

 

[DBR3T]

This FuelBot2.0 install is on a 2008 R3T. Here I’ll show the speed sensor wiring.
The instructions included with the unit are excellent. I just wanted to show a R3T specific install.

Use the instructions supplied with the unit.
If you don’t own one already, buy a service manual specific to your bike.
In other words, don't rely on what you're about to read to be accurate for your bike.


Locate the speed sensor connector located behind the left side black cover that has the goofy euro power point.
Link Removed


On this bike the wire coloring scheme matched the wiring diagram ONLY on the upstream side.
Pink /Yellow –Speed Signal to ECU
Black-Ground
Black/Yellow-12vdc from Speedo

Attach the 3 Posi-Tap connectors to the speed sensor wires.

Check all three with your trusty Fluke to confirm ID. Be sure to plug the speedo in and turn the key on first.
Pink /Yellow – <1vdc
Black-Ground
Black/Yellow-12vdc (or so)

Attach the 3 lead wires to the Posi-Tap per the most excellent instructions supplied by Dave.

Wrap ‘em up if desired. I like 3M Scotch 2242.

Carefully realign the bracket with the holes. It can be a bit tricky getting the connectors back where they belong.

 

[Joesmoe]

Love it !

That's why this site is so good -- a reflection of the wonderful captains here !

Thank you !

 

[barbagris]

My God - THE LEFT HAND PANEL. Ok I knew, but why on earth did Triumph stuff it all in there?.
FFS!.

 

[DBR3T]

Now for the installation of the fuel injection sense wire.

Crawl under your fuel tank and locate the two wires going from the front fuel injector (#1) to the secondary wiring harness. #1 was easiest to access on my bike. You can use any of the 3. Expose enough wire to allow installation of a Posi-Tap. The Yellow/Pink wire pulled away from the bundle shown below is the one you are going to tap into. This view is from the left side of the bike.(Ignore the Posi-Taps shown in this picture.)

Install the FuelBot2.0 grey wire on the Yellow/Pink wire from the fuel injector. This view is from the right side of the bike.

Wrap the wiring harness and secure all the wiring to prevent abrasion of the wire insulation. Wiring harness hygiene is important.

 

[DEcosse]

... Install the FuelBot2.0 brown wire on the Yellow/Pink wire from the fuel injector ....

You mean GREY wire, right?

 

[DBR3T]

You mean GREY wire, right?

Oops... Stoopid error corrected.
Thanks to the ace copy editor DEcosse.

 

[DEcosse]

For anyone who has not used a PosiTap before ..............

Note in the graphic above, the 'cartoon' shows the larger type PosiTap (like the one on the Fuel Injector Wire) which has an obvious 'fat' end and a narrow end; the fat end is clearly the end that goes over the OEM wire.


One thing to look out for on the smaller taps for the Speed Connector wires - notice this no longer has a 'fat' end, but a Black Cap end and a Red Cap end; the Black end is the one that 'taps' the OEM wire (as per DBR3T photo)

Link Removed

Note the 'Black' cap and a 'Red' cap;
The Black one has a slot in it between the threads to slip over the OEM wire; then you screw the body into it. Also important to note here that you are screwing the BODY while holding the black cap i.e NOT screwing the cap into the body! (Subtle difference)
Here's the thing - you need to be careful not to remove both the Red & Black caps at same time (well you can but you have to make careful note!) - the middle 'body' section looks the same either way around - HOWEVER the end that inserts onto the Black Cap has the needle which punctures the OEM wire insulation; the other end (for the Red Cap) has a 'blunt' screw. So you must be careful to install the correct end onto the correct cap.
(I have a PosiTap for the clutch wire on my KeyLess kit and actually had one user who had got the body reversed)
The simplest way to avoid any confusion is don't remove the red cap until after you have completed the first part of the process, installing the PosiTap (Black end) onto the OEM wire.

Some of that knowledge may be redundant & quite self-obvious but as mentioned, I have had at least one user get the PosiTap confused.

One more note on the Speed Sender Tap connections that may not be immediately obvious - 'stagger' the PosiTaps at different length from the connector for each wire - this will make your end result much less bulky than if you try to tap them all equi-distant from the connector - If you were to do them equi-distant from the connector they would all be competing for the same space and you would have them all sticking out at 120 deg angles to each other - by staggering, they can all be in the same plane like in DBR3T picture above.

 

[Joesmoe]

I imagine all who have fuel bot got the same email as me from Dave:

"I just discovered an incompatibility between the FuelBot2.0 and the Rocket3.

It turns out the R3 speed sensor takes reading from a 48 tooth (large!, well, it is a big bike, right?) final drive gear on the drive shaft which results in a very large Pulse/Mile number, like 115,000. Problem is, the current FuelBot2.0 only has a 5 digit pulse/mile entry field.

A replacement FuleBot2.0 with updated firmware to support 6 digit pulse/mile entry will ship today. Enclosed will be a postage paid envelope for return of the original FuelBot2.0.

Sorry for the trouble.

Cheers!
-Dave"
​

This is an example of excellent customer service.

 

[DEcosse]

I imagine all who have fuel bot got the same email as me from Dave:

I think that might only apply to US users (but I will confirm with Dave)

Edit - confirmed - you & DBR3T are the only two US R3 users to date and will get replacement with the updated firmware; Dave will inform the Metric guys, but there should be no need/reason to change those.
All other units shipped to non-R3 users, will similarly have no issue - it is unique to 'miles' and R3 users (nothing else to date has seen such a high pulse count)

I worked through this issue with Dave, actually up till the wee hours the other night trying to compute the math, based on the R3 speed sender and the final drive gearing.
(thanks to warp9.9 for confirming my deduction that the speed sender was looking at the 48T output Helical gear on the Transmission)

There is actually no problem for those who use the metric setting - that setting takes pulses per km instead of pulses per mile, so that gets it down to 5 digits. (115,000 pulses per mile is 71,430 per km). The limitation on the US units was purely the number of digits that could be entered in the program field and in miles, the R3 produces 6 digit number per mile (but only 5 digit number per km)
In fact that was the clue to understanding why one member 'down under' had his successfully installed and operating correctly. So those units sent to Europe and Australia will be just fine.
Indeed, even for those in US, just a simple 'dance' in programming is all that is required - set to US initially, get the pulses per mile, divide that number by 1.61, set to metric, enter the 'new' number, set back to US. That in fact will work perfectly with no loss of resolution.
But such is the measure of Dave, it appears like he is replacing the US R3 units that he may have shipped so R3 users don't have to take those extra steps in programming to accomplish the end result.

For those interested in the math, here is how it works out;
180/70/16 tire (Touring) (theoretically) has 29.2" diameter or 81.43" circumference
(note that the 240/50/16 of the Roadster is slightly smaller and also in real World, the diameter will not be quite this big anyway)
Let's just call it 80" circumference as a 'better' approximation.
1 mile - (5280' x 12)" = 63,360"
So in one mile the rear wheel turns (63,360 / 80) = 792 times.
There is a 2.864 final drive ratio, so the shaft turns (792 x 2.846) = 2254 times in that mile.
There is a secondary ratio of 1.043 between the Helical Gears which takes it to 2366 at the Transmission Output Shaft which is rotating at (2268 * 1.043) 2366 times for every mile traveled by the rear wheel.
Now - the speed sensor is looking at that Transmission output gear and sees a pulse every time a tooth passes across the sensor; With 48 tooth gear that means (2366 * 48) pulses for every mile = 112,844 pulses for every mile

Again that is theoretical number - in real World DBR3T got 117,000 pulses over his measured mile and a Metric User got 68,682 pulses for 1km (on a Roadster)
(note 68682 * 1.61 = 110, 578)