roadster ignition wiring extention

has any body either purchased or done a roadster ignition barrel extension sometime ago Rivco sold such an animal but they don't anymore and I believe the barrel on 06 is different than say 2013 roadster
if some captains have figured out a system to start and stop without fishing for the key way down the front behind lights and fly screen!! I would be interested

I can make that for you (at least the extender harness - you would have to accommodate the mechanical relo of the switch yourself - the accessory socket location on left side might be good option)

if some captains have figured out a system to start and stop without fishing for the key way down the front behind lights and fly screen!! I would be interested

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well yeah - you just go full KeyLess

Interestingly I actually supplied a Key-Less kit to a NY Sherriff for his active-duty Police Scooter for similar reason - it was really awkward to reach the key-switch with his radio gear mounted between the bars and he contacted me after seeing one of my YouTube videos.


Yes, the connectors are different on early models, changed about '08

DEcosse makes good stuff. Go with his keyless system Patrick.

Idaho Red Rocket 3 said:

DEcosse makes good stuff. Go with his keyless system Patrick.

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Bill... for personal reason I have to go with keyed ignition... don't ask and I won't lie

DEcosse said:

I can make that for you (at least the extender harness - you would have to accommodate the mechanical relo of the switch yourself - the accessory socket location on left side might be good option)



well yeah - you just go full KeyLess

Interestingly I actually supplied a Key-Less kit to a NY Sherriff for his active-duty Police Scooter for similar reason - it was really awkward to reach the key-switch with his radio gear mounted between the bars and he contacted me after seeing one of my YouTube videos.


Yes, the connectors are different on early models, changed about '08

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ok an extention that plug into the barrel connection from the other end of that connection is what I am looking for I will measure the distance I believe 30 inches is what is needed from the cigar lighter post to the barrel I will measure and see PM me the cost of the extention when you know thanks

albertaduke said:

.... I will measure the distance I believe 30 inches is what is needed from the cigar lighter post to the barrel I will measure and see

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Bear in mind that the main harness connector is already behind the steering head & you probably have 12-15" or so (guesstimate!) of key-switch harness too
So you might take those factors into account - but better to have 'too much' than not enough
But sure I would say something in the 24-30 range should be good

DEcosse said:

Bear in mind that the main harness connector is already behind the steering head & you probably have 12-15" or so (guesstimate!) of key-switch harness too
So you might take those factors into account - but better to have 'too much' than not enough
But sure I would say something in the 24-30 range should be good

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seems about right I guesstimated 30 inches already, although did not realized there was 15 inches behind the ignition barrel lets go with 30 inches

OK @DEcosse and @albertaduke I have both ignition switches available since the Falcon is torn down. So from the bottom of the ignition Barrel to the very end of the newer style plug is 10 inches. Now the length of one that has had the update kit installed which means you changes the plug ends is 15 inches The extra 5 is the new style pigtail supplied in the kit. Likewise the harness section gets a wee bit longer 5 inches also. Now that I have measured this I did notice that on mine the white with blue strip wire on the engine side has suffered from heat problems much like the white ground wire did. I will have to see what this wire supplies. I took mine apart because it was actually losing the head lights under boost. By this I mean when I rolled on hard and boost went above 5 psi the light would start to flicker and go out until I let off of her. Man this sucks at night. I was pondering if there was a bad set of relays in the EB kit but have not got any further on the electrical except to buy a new ignition switch. DEcosse if you know off hand what the wire feeds I would appreciate the information.

Upon checking the wiring schematics it looks like the white with blue stripe wire runs to fuse 2 ignition switch main feed. and the other side of the fuse runs to the battery and a few other things like rectifier and battery or maybe the juice runs from the battery thru the fuse box. Either way the heat problem is right where the new style plug is crimped to the harness.

@warp9.9 - the White/Blue supplies all the current to both the headlight circuits PLUS the Ignition circuit;
On a 'std' bike that would be in the order of ~15-18A or so
I suspect that your 'blown' set-up includes a bigger fuel pump, which would increase this number further.
If you want to reduce the current in the White/Blue wire then you can use relays to bypass the headlight current and/or reconfigure OEM Fuel Pump Relay (19 on the schematic) to remove the Green/Red wire from the socket and replace with fused wire directly from the battery (pump power will still be controlled by ignition and ECU)

DEcosse said:

@warp9.9 - the White/Blue supplies all the current to both the headlight circuits PLUS the Ignition circuit;
On a 'std' bike that would be in the order of ~15-18A or so
I suspect that your 'blown' set-up includes a bigger fuel pump, which would increase this number further.
If you want to reduce the current in the White/Blue wire then you can use relays to bypass the headlight current and/or reconfigure OEM Fuel Pump Relay (19 on the schematic) to remove the Green/Red wire from the socket and replace with fused wire directly from the battery (pump power will still be controlled by ignition and ECU)

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I wonder if this would have happened if I had cut the supplied crimp connections and soldered the new ends right on. Since right in the crimp connection is where the heat problem originated. I know I am using the head light circuit but just to operate the EB relay Or I think that is what their kit does. And Yes it does have a Walbro fuel pump in her that has been in her for 40,000 miles. I will have to look at redirecting the power to the fuel pump anyway for safety. Any more and I am going to have to add a power distribution box to the bike

Now that I have had some time to think the newer updated connectors have been in 20,000+ miles before the Eastern Beaver kit was added so it might be from when the full load went thru the ignition switch that created the heat problem.