Roadster didn't start & check engine light

[MajorTom]

Not sure if anyone has heard of this problem based on these "hints" (I'm not mechanically inclined):

2012 Rocket Roaster with Carpenter Brute exhaust, Power Commander, air box delete, triple K&N filters, 37,000km

I put in about 600km since I got her this winter. Has been running like a charm so far. Took her out for a short ride (about 50km) and after about 20 min stop she won't start. Had her in neutral all normal lights on, pressed ignition - nothing. Turned her back off and back on. Now check engine light is on and the fuel indicator reset to "0" and range is "0". Tried ignition again and she turns over but doesn't start. At this point my buddy suggested to "pump" the throttle twice before trying to start. Off,On,neutral, pump throttle twice, start - and she starts up like normal! Check engine light is still on on the ride home but fuel gauge and range climbed slowly back up to regular level. Tried starting her again in the garage at home and she's starting up no problem (but the check engine light is still on).

I'll have my local bike shop have a look at the bike hopefully next week to figure out what the check engine light is trying to indicate...hopefully nothing major?

Side note: She is leaking some oil around the cam cover gasket but I've read on here that this seems to be a common issue. I'm getting my shop to fix that for me soon.

 

[warp9.9]

Not sure if anyone has heard of this problem based on these "hints" (I'm not mechanically inclined):

2012 Rocket Roaster with Carpenter Brute exhaust, Power Commander, air box delete, triple K&N filters, 37,000km

I put in about 600km since I got her this winter. Has been running like a charm so far. Took her out for a short ride (about 50km) and after about 20 min stop she won't start. Had her in neutral all normal lights on, pressed ignition - nothing. Turned her back off and back on. Now check engine light is on and the fuel indicator reset to "0" and range is "0". Tried ignition again and she turns over but doesn't start. At this point my buddy suggested to "pump" the throttle twice before trying to start. Off,On,neutral, pump throttle twice, start - and she starts up like normal! Check engine light is still on on the ride home but fuel gauge and range climbed slowly back up to regular level. Tried starting her again in the garage at home and she's starting up no problem (but the check engine light is still on).

I'll have my local bike shop have a look at the bike hopefully next week to figure out what the check engine light is trying to indicate...hopefully nothing major?

Side note: She is leaking some oil around the cam cover gasket but I've read on here that this seems to be a common issue. I'm getting my shop to fix that for me soon.

If you have no way to read the DTC engine code you can get it done at a auto parts store but it also sounds like time to get some tuning software so you can at least perform maintenance and trouble shooting. One thing I wonder is did you do the O2 sensor bypass because if not and you did not get into the ECU to shut it off that could be the code but I am just guessing.

 

[MajorTom]

If you have no way to read the DTC engine code you can get it done at a auto parts store but it also sounds like time to get some tuning software so you can at least perform maintenance and trouble shooting. One thing I wonder is did you do the O2 sensor bypass because if not and you did not get into the ECU to shut it off that could be the code but I am just guessing.

Yah the software/reader is definitely on the list to get. I'm not sure about the O2 sensor...the previous owner did all the modifications. This is the first time the check engine light came on.

 

[scot in exile]

As said get the $20 cable plus auto zone(or equivalent) can probably help you, one other theory is the Carpenter exhaust it is not designed to run correctly on Canadian air remove it right away and send it to me for proper disposal I will even pay half the postage cost..

 

[1olbull]

As said get the $20 cable plus auto zone(or equivalent) can probably help you, one other theory is the Carpenter exhaust it is not designed to run correctly on Canadian air remove it right away and send it to me for proper disposal I will even pay half the postage cost..

WHAT A PAL!!!

 

[MajorTom]

As said get the $20 cable plus auto zone(or equivalent) can probably help you, one other theory is the Carpenter exhaust it is not designed to run correctly on Canadian air remove it right away and send it to me for proper disposal I will even pay half the postage cost..

Actually the Carpenter exhaust is overly polite as it lets everyone know I'm arriving well before I get there - and therefore very Canadian!

Noob question: does the TuneECU software + USB cable read the check engine error codes as well?

 

[scot in exile]

Does that mean you are not sending the exhaust to me, so much for me trying to help the environment
I am sure you can just do a quick YouTube search and you will find quite a few videos, good luck.

 

[Claviger]

Actually the Carpenter exhaust is overly polite as it lets everyone know I'm arriving well before I get there - and therefore very Canadian!

Noob question: does the TuneECU software + USB cable read the check engine error codes as well?

Yes, it will read the codes and allow you to clear them as well.

 

[Scorp]

Maybe you can check the cable connection plugs under the fuel tank, hopefully it is something simple like a bad connection.

 

[Claviger]

Something just occurred to me. These are the exact symptoms I had when my negative battery lead was loose.

Maybe check those before anything else. The distance to empty reset is a give away that the ECU was reset somehow.