Ignition... Fuel injection MAP HICCUP misfire???

[Mongler07]

I have always had a hickuo or 2 in 2nd around higher revs but again when I was giving it the beans.... like ONE or two max not predicable.

Progress to now that I have the new pipes and deCAT nothing changed. Then I put the ramair intake on and did a 12 minute tune as per instructions. I also removed the secondary butterflys. Now the hiccup issue happens a lot maybe 5 to 10 times during all rpm range in the entire duration of a full lull in 2nd gear and is not dependent on load or throttle, it can and does happen at just cruising to next to idle revs. When I say hiccup I mean a misfire. Never in any other gear.
I changed to overhead coils and new plugs ngk 7ae-9 gapped correctly 0.034-0.035. Old plugs were also fine btw, but it did not change that issue but did smooth out how the engine ran maybe!
I am still on the original tune and I suspect that once I flash in a proper tune that hickup issue will go away?

EDIT; I JUST was finally able to reflash the ECU with a proper tune and the issue has gotten WORSE... wth? 2nd gear is almost completely full of misfires "stumbles" "hiccups" whatever you call them.
IT DOES NOT do this in any other gear in any rpm range at any throttle% ONLY in 2nd gear. The tune feels much smoother btw.

 

[Claviger]

New TPS + adjustment set to 0.68v (instead of 0.62v) with IACV fully open will resolve it most likely. This adjustment was the issue on many roadsters, there was a wave of bikes that would just stall because of it and cough/backfire through the intake in 2nd gear at times.

 

[TURBO200R4]

the guy that advised you about the nuetral switch is right on it is a good idea to clean that.
with the nuetral switch if the ecu does not read 2nd gear then the ecu will substitute nuetral and it runs for $hit.
also it you have the clutch switch shorted/by passed then it will run for $hit.
hth

 

[TURBO200R4]

ps becareful with thaat switch they are obslete.
and in the shaft there is a cap with a little spring clean all of the contacts.

 

[Mongler07]

New TPS + adjustment set to 0.68v (instead of 0.62v) with IACV fully open will resolve it most likely. This adjustment was the issue on many roadsters, there was a wave of bikes that would just stall because of it and cough/backfire through the intake in 2nd gear at times.

That is also happening. A few backfires when I rev it some times... like just one.
Sounds like the issue.
I'll check it out this weekend.
Can you explain what you said in a little more layman... do I need new parts? Is that tuned adjusted in tuneecu?

 

[Claviger]

Primary TPS on the parts fiche, #2 here, the new ones have a blue inside, they last a long time usually, much longer than the older ones:

100065348-0-2

ThrottlesInjectors amp Fuel Rail

www.worldoftriumph.com

This is on the end of the TBs by your left knee, NOT the one on the radiator side of the TBs (that's the secondary and can be completely ignored with removed secondary plates).

TuneECU has a TPS adjustment feature. When following the instructions for it, substitute 0.68 for the part where it says to get to 0.60-0.62. I've tried this on multiple R3s now and they always run better with .68 instead of .60-.62.

This voltage tells the ECU you are at true 0% throttle. When it's set to 0.68 instead of 0.6, the slightest motion of the throttle now registers to the ECU. With 0.6 setting, there is slop between physically closed throttle and just slightly open where the ECU still receives a "fully closed" signal. This mismatch between physical open amount and ECU signal screws up fueling and ignition timing.

With a failing sensor, it will stick in places at a certain voltage. So, for example, if you go to 50% throttle but the sensor only sends a 15% throttle because it's a bad sensor, fueling/ignition will be completely wrong for the amount of air being ingested and the bike will hesitate/buck/cough etc.

TPS adjustment instructions here:

Connect TuneECU, bike power on, not running.
Tests page of TuneECU.
Double click "Adjust ISCV".
Listen to wonky noises until it's done moving things. Now look at ISCV voltage.
Loosen the single screw that fixes the primary TPS, and rotate gently until the displayed voltage is 0.68v, secure single bolt.
Double click to continue.

Verify by doing it a second time, or as many times as are necessary to get ISCV voltage to 0.68 when fully open during the Adjust ISCV process.

The process for adjusting the stalling while coasting with clutch pulled/in neutral is another issue, but do this first as it may fix it

 

[Mongler07]

I'm assuming this was the neutral switch? I just cleaned it with some scotch bright pad and brake cleaner off the bike and the plunger.

 

[Mongler07]

Primary TPS on the parts fiche, #2 here, the new ones have a blue inside, they last a long time usually, much longer than the older ones:

100065348-0-2

ThrottlesInjectors amp Fuel Rail

www.worldoftriumph.com

This is on the end of the TBs by your left knee, NOT the one on the radiator side of the TBs (that's the secondary and can be completely ignored with removed secondary plates).

TuneECU has a TPS adjustment feature. When following the instructions for it, substitute 0.68 for the part where it says to get to 0.60-0.62. I've tried this on multiple R3s now and they always run better with .68 instead of .60-.62.

This voltage tells the ECU you are at true 0% throttle. When it's set to 0.68 instead of 0.6, the slightest motion of the throttle now registers to the ECU. With 0.6 setting, there is slop between physically closed throttle and just slightly open where the ECU still receives a "fully closed" signal. This mismatch between physical open amount and ECU signal screws up fueling and ignition timing.

With a failing sensor, it will stick in places at a certain voltage. So, for example, if you go to 50% throttle but the sensor only sends a 15% throttle because it's a bad sensor, fueling/ignition will be completely wrong for the amount of air being ingested and the bike will hesitate/buck/cough etc.

TPS adjustment instructions here:

Connect TuneECU, bike power on, not running.
Tests page of TuneECU.
Double click "Adjust ISCV".
Listen to wonky noises until it's done moving things. Now look at ISCV voltage.
Loosen the single screw that fixes the primary TPS, and rotate gently until the displayed voltage is 0.68v, secure single bolt.
Double click to continue.

Verify by doing it a second time, or as many times as are necessary to get ISCV voltage to 0.68 when fully open during the Adjust ISCV process.

The process for adjusting the stalling while coasting with clutch pulled/in neutral is another issue, but do this first as it may fix it

Perfect. I'll get on it right away.

 

[Mongler07]

No change on the cleaning of that switch.
I'll get on the tps next

 

[Claviger]

You'll need a new one, usually Triumph USA warehouse has them in stock so just a few business days shipping.

If the voltage is well below 0.6 or above 0.7, you may be able to get away with only the adjustment. It's this sensor: