risers for the roadster

[glenn-iocb]

hi y'all,

i was thinking of replacing the handlebars (stock) and the risers (stock) on my roadster.

in order to know what risers i can mount i need some info on what the size of the bolt is,

the one that goes thru the triple tree. i can't measure it myself is because "my" roadster is

currently only a production number on a piece of paper. (bought a new one last week)

but i would like to get all the stuff here before the bike arrives. (hate driving stock)

thanx in advance,

greetz glenn

 

[MountainMan]

Hi, Glenn:

I have an R3T and I bought a set of risers from the 2010 Thunderbird. I also bought the proper bolts from the T-bird because I knew they'd fit the T-Bird risers. Thes risers are the same as the Rivco aftermarket risers (1" up, and 2" back). If my stock R3T bars don't cut the mustard (still hurt my wrists and elbows), then I'll look into replacing them with the much flatter T-bird bars. I suggest you go talk to your parts counter at the stealership and have them pull up the schematics and parts description for the stock bolts. The other option is to have a chat with the service guys and see if they know off the top of their heads.

Make sure you download the proper Factory Repair Manual from this website before getting out the tools.

And finally, one thing that seems to be stressed by the site membership is that when working on handlebar issues, get the biggest, fluffiest blanket or towel and make sure you cover the tank and any other painted/chromed surface before messing around with heavy parts and tools. Remember, bad things do happen to good mechanics.

And welcome to our strange, little world.

 

[Super D.]

Gorge,
I am using the Rivco Risers with the T'Bird handlebars, and I LOVE the set up! I went through a lot of different setups and this is the best one BY FAR! I hated the stock R3T bars.

 

[MountainMan]

Super D:

I was also looking at the Rivco risers, but balked at the $180 cost (delivered). For about $100, the T-Bird risers have the same 1"-2" effect and I don't have to chase down the bolts.

You know me, I'm slow when it comes to actually getting the mods made. I'll do the risers with the stock bars first, then, if my wrists/elbows are still torqued, I'll look at the T-Bird bars. I do, however, much appreciate the feedback. I also have to take into account my 5.5" fwd controls and the change in seat position (back about 2.5 inches). All the changes will affect the ergonomics of how the bars fit and with which ones I ultimately end up.

With the T-Bird bars and risers, did you have to re-route the clutch cable (like you would have to for the stock bars)?

Sorry for hijacking the thread a little, Glenn. Please take into account that both Super D. and myself have '08 R3T's and are 6'5" with big feet (he's just a lot skinnier than I am). Obvoiusly, we have both been working on mods to our bikes that improve the ergonomics - a very important thing for both safety in operation and comfort (something to keep in mind as you look at the catalogs).

I hope it helps.

 

[Super D.]

Gorge,
Because the T'Bird bars are more narrow, and the pullback is not nearly that of the stock bars, there is a lot of cable left over, and there is no need to re-route.

You will probably be fine with the stock bars, but definitely give it a little time. I had to adjust mine several times, but eventually found a good position. I ended up going the T'Bird route because I wanted a different look and feel for my bike. I really like it.... But it isn't for everyone.

Glenn,
Save yourself some money and do what Gorge did with the T'Bird risers. I bought mine before the T'Bird came out, so I didn't have that option.

Cheers!
D.

 

[glenn-iocb]

hey D,

it's because i still have a set of m m109r (risers and handlebar) that i am wondering if i could aybe get the m109r parts onto the r3.

the handlebar of the M109R is standard oversized and the risers have quite a pullback. and also where the tach of the M is bolted on the risers, i might get the R3 clocks bolted on there.

 

[Super D.]

I would check the bolt holes center to center on the risers and then compare it with the holes on the top yoke. Because the risers are connect together, if it isn't a perfect fit then it won't work. But if it DOES fit, be sure and let everyone know. I think a lot of people would be interested.

 

[MountainMan]

Deleted

 

[MountainMan]

Glenn, it looks like the M109 risers come back too far and would likely interfere with the raising of the fuel tank on the Rocket (something we end up doing more often than you'd think). The Rivco/T-Bird risers have a modest 1" up - 2" back geometry and, to my knowledge, that makes it close, but does not interfere with raising the fuel tank. Any more rake back would likely interfere. I also know there is a rubber grommet arrangement for the mounting of the risers on the Rocket so as to minimize vibration on the hands and at the mirrors. The base of the risers have to fit correctly into the grommet recess to utilize this design feature. Otherwise, even a Harley will seem vibration-free in comparison.

 

[glenn-iocb]

@ d: in the pic the risers are bolted together by a plate which the M109R revcounter bolts onto,

but if you remove this plate, another can be fabbed up (wider or narrower in order to make the risers fit from hole to hole in the yoke)

and also customised so you can bolt the R3R instruments onto this newly fabbed "instrument plate"

i measured the m109r risers and included them in a pic. (the bolt in the m109r risers are M10)

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/9716/risersm109r.jpg

maybe somebody can measure the height from the top yoke to the top of the tank? (would do it myself but my roadster is still being made in the factory)

@ georgerider: maybe the included pic helps to determin if the tank still can be raised enough or not?? if not, i probably will order bars from thunderbike or steve,

but IF it's possible to mount the m109r risers and handlebar, i'd use the since they are free to me cause i've got that spare part left over