Removing baffles from stock exhaust

All, I'm a little late into the Rocket scene, and just found this thread on debaffling. I just bought a 2010 R3T in March and would like to beef up the sound without breaking the bank. I had an 2009 Suzuki M50 that I debaffled before this. I'm sure it's similar, but some photos/tips/tricks would be great. Also, removing the CAT, tuning tips after mods, etc, would be much appreciated!
Welcome to the best R3 owners forum, pop over to the "introduce Yourself " section under the forum tabs tell a bit about yourself and your bike and you will get heaps more guys willing to help you but you can also just do more searches in regards to your exhaust there are heaps of threads and when you are ready to start playing with tunes drop me a line
 
I picked up a complete exhaust with all of the stainless heat shields/covers , a full set of all 3 like new TORS and the Triumph stock cat bypass pipe for my '06 Classic from some gal in Florida on ebay for around $450.00 US, and now the bike runs and sounds much better. Took it to the Tacoma Triumph dealer and got the computer tuned for $30.00 US.

Now it sounds a lot like a very fast expensive foreign sports car I will never be able to afford...lol

For those of you that have the old 3 pipe exhaust, if you can, I highly recommend replacing the cat box. Besides being kinda heavy, it does restrict the flow and the noice.
 
Is this still the best way to de-cat a stock R3T muffler? Using a 2 ¼" hole bit to drill through the first baffle, then a 2" hole bit to drill through the second, and finish with a 3 foot ⅝ or ¾ bit to drill through the cat.
 
I have a 2013 R3R, which I removed both baffles from. I was asked to post how I did it.

Here is how I went about removing the 2 baffles and it was rather easy.

1) Using a 2-1/4" bi-metal hole saw bit, you drill out the rear baffle. It will pull right out when you get through.
2)Using a 2" bi-metal hole saw bit, you will drill out the internal or second baffle. This one take a little more time, but isn't too bad.
3) Once you are through the second baffle, it will be held back by a welded flange. Using a chisel and hammer break through the flange and fold over the individual bends. Once you create enough space you can pull out the second baffle.

Now you are just left with the catalytic converter, which I haven't figured out how to remove yet.

I am open to any suggestions. I am about ready to start drilling into it with a long bit.

Sincerely, Brandon
YOU can simply remove it all but leave the header and install a SLIP ON for the best performance using the stock header
 
A lot of novice Harley guys love to remove there baffles so it sounds like a Harley. Problem is they usually gain a lot of noise but lose horsepower and torque. A tuned Exhaust is a tune Exhaust. IMG_0338.JPG Same with the Rocket. :cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
 
Is this still the best way to de-cat a stock R3T muffler? Using a 2 ¼" hole bit to drill through the first baffle, then a 2" hole bit to drill through the second, and finish with a 3 foot ⅝ or ¾ bit to drill through the cat.

In a post by Rocket3pilot "skinning the CAT ?" he showed what happened when he tried to drill through the CAT, just didn't work.

IMG_0613.jpg
 
In a post by Rocket3pilot "skinning the CAT ?" he showed what happened when he tried to drill through the CAT, just didn't work.

IMG_0613.jpg
That's exactly correct! The CAT itself is some kind of super metal foil that can take extreme heat without disintegrating and is built very similar to cardboard except in a circular fashion so as to end up a cylinder shape. The problem with drilling is that a drill bit has to be able to bite and pull itself into the material which it can't do in this case because the very thin foil simply folds over at the contact point and the bit just rubs and doesn't cut. Almost as if it's gummy?

I think you have to gnaw on it with a hole saw first to get it pierced and then, with long needle nose pliers or chisels, start peeling away the layers from the center, so as to make the hole larger and larger until you remove it all. It's by far the most time consuming part of the process. Slitting the can open from the back as I did and welding it back together didn't take any time at all.
 
IMG_7471.jpg
Is this still the best way to de-cat a stock R3T muffler? Using a 2 ¼" hole bit to drill through the first baffle, then a 2" hole bit to drill through the second, and finish with a 3 foot ⅝ or ¾ bit to drill through the cat.
 
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