Rear brake rotor

[TURBO200R4]

With the stock pads the brake had almost no feel. Felt like it would barely slow the bike. As you pressed harder on the pedal then it would lock the rear wheel. The EBC HH pads have a lot more grip, but the rotor feels like it varies in thickness from one area to the next. When almost stopped, the bike literally feels like your pumping the pedal. I don't feel the pulsation in the pedal itself though.

i understand now.

 

[Jag]

Awhile back someone had a handle on "wavy ones".

Yes, but then you will look like a cruiser with ****** rocket brakes!

 

[cr0ft]

Yes, but then you will look like a cruiser with ****** rocket brakes!

Yeah that's a bit of an issue. I'd like some wavy ones (they do have benefits other than looks) but with a polished or chrome hub. But good luck with that one I guess.

 

[Claviger]

It's technically got ****** rocket brakes stock.

Cross reference Daytona955i/Speed Triple brakes circa 2002-2007, youll find they are the same.

 

[Bedifferent]

Brembo is located in Homer near me....give them a call...maybe they could help.

 

[Rick Morris]

Can anyone recommend (as in I've used such & such on my R3 with great success) a good replacement rear brake rotor for an 05' R3. The rear rotor was warped badly when I got the bike. Bought a used replacement off ebay. I rarely ever use my back brake but had bought some EBC HH pads awhile back, so I threw them in last night. The rear brake pulsates something terrible. Tried sanding the glaze off and bedded them in gently again, but still have the pulsation. My take is that the stock rotor is a POS. Thinking I would like to try the aftermarket. Pretty sure it pulsated with the original pads but the rear brake was so weak you couldn't feel it. Dragging my feet would work just as well.

Did you ever get this issue squared away?

 

[Rocket Scientist]

I did some reading on disc brakes. I guess about 90% of pulsation issues are caused by uneven distribution of pad material on the surface of the disc. Put the bike on the lift and spun the rear wheel. I didn't put an indicator on it but there is no visual runout. I again sanded the outer face of the disc, used a flap wheel this time and got it real good. Still could only hand sand in the inner side. It's about 50% better than it was. I'll probably buy a new EBC rotor and put it on at the next tire change. I rarely use the back break anyway but thought it would be nice if it at least worked as good as it could (hence the EBC HH pads).

 

[EasTexRIII]

I did some reading on disc brakes. I guess about 90% of pulsation issues are caused by uneven distribution of pad material on the surface of the disc. Put the bike on the lift and spun the rear wheel. I didn't put an indicator on it but there is no visual runout. I again sanded the outer face of the disc, used a flap wheel this time and got it real good. Still could only hand sand in the inner side. It's about 50% better than it was. I'll probably buy a new EBC rotor and put it on at the next tire change. I rarely use the back break anyway but thought it would be nice if it at least worked as good as it could (hence the EBC HH pads).

Hey R/S, If you mount the flap wheel/grinder disc backwards on the hand held air grinder (I assume that's what you used) you can get to the inside of the disc with the grinder still facing the wheel. I did this on mine to knock off some glazing & it worked great - you can use as low as 60 or 80 grit

 

[Rick Morris]

There was an advertisement banner on this forum for www.newr3.com they listed Beringer brakes for replacement rotors, as I checked it out they only list the front. I thought this may have helped but I realized it was the rear you had an issue with.

 

[HansO]

I would stick to the tried and tested EBC when buying your new rotor as I found out on a previous bike there are others out there but they are not in the same league