BinDerSmokDat
.040 Over
Got my Preds and couldn't wait to put 'em on. Thanks to Miami Dave and his excellent PC3 How To which saved me a lot of trouble. I didn't have half the issues he had, but that's because he blazed the way. Also I took the liberty of shooting some PB Blast on many of the bolts in advance so they would be easier to break free.
TravelGuy either jinxed me or gave me good luck on the stock shields removal, depending how you look at it. He said all of the clamps would be bunged up or cross threaded, as most he has seen were that way "but you might have the one bike without that problem." Turns out only one out of the 5 was cross threaded and after a few turns I was able to pry the clamp off with a screw driver. All the rest came off like butter.
Here's the manifold sans shields:
Remove the 3 into 2 chrome cover and the left side chrome cover that hide the muffler clamps.
Next I got on my back and checked out what was doing where the manifold bolts to the Cat box. This clamp came off easily too:
The TORs clamps were next, and they came off pretty smoothly:
The trick in getting the stock cans/TOR's off is to remove the 2 bolts that hold them to their bracket and then since they bend at a 90 degree angle, swing them up and down gently while pulling at the elbow. They slid right off.
Remove the left side single pipe the same way. Now unbolt the two chrome covers on the lower support brackets and the rear pegs. You need to do this to get at the bolts holding the exhaust bracket supports.
Once you remove the brackets replace the chrome covers and the left peg. You need to do this first because later when you bolt the Preds in place they will block the right side cover holes. I found this out the hard way. Leave the right peg off as that bolt also holds up the Preds.
Once you have everything off the cat box there is one bolt holding it in place on the right side. Unbolt it and from the right side pull it towards you and down. The left side has no bolts just 2 rubber grommet mounts that slip onto pegs. It came right off and left a gaping hole that was a gorgeous sight to behold:
It seems to me that the starter motor might live a little longer without all of that heat next to it and might even improve hot starting.
Now remove the O2 sensor from the manifold. It came off easy, considering the heat it has seen and the wire fighting you as you attempt to loosen it.
Now with all of the ancillary crap off, you can unbolt the manifold.
The last time I saw 3 holes that looked this pretty was on a stripper in...ahem but I digress...
Gently remove the old copper gaskets they are thin wire and will be tarnished and won't look shiny like the new ones you hopefully ordered before you started this project.
Next arrange all the pieces and marvel at how much crap goes into a stock exhaust compared to a set of Preds:
My Preds with shields weighed 20lbs. I didn't bother to weigh all of the parts I took off but I estimate they weigh about 40lbs.
Next remove the rear most bolt in the brake/foot peg rail. This lines up with the lower bracket on the Preds.
I put some antisieze on the exhaust studs, slipped the Preds onto the studs and got them fit pretty close to final fit. I loosely put on the stainless washers (so you don't gouge the finish) and the acorn washers. Next I put the right peg on to get the pipes supported. Now go back and tighten the acorns on the exhaust studs. I tightened them all down hand tight and then torqued them down a little each time making several passes. I had to pull on the #3 pipe a little because it wasn't lining up right but it wasn't bad. After all of the exhaust flanges were bolted up nice and even I installed the right peg. i had to lift the pipe while my wife wiggled the peg into the hole, lining up the two index nubs with the holes in the Pred bracket. The holes were a little off, but once the bolt was through the bracket and I started tightening it, the nubs popped into their holes.
Last came the lower bracket. It was bent away from the frame a little and the stock bolt wasn't long enough to engage the threads. I used a slightly longer stainless bolt and stainless washer (again to protect the pipes finish) to pull the bracket in and secure it through the rail hole. Worked like a charm and while I wouldn't recommend it, you could stand on the pipes just in front of the collector and they wouldn't budge.
Remove the right cover and locate the connector for the O2 sensor. Unplug the sensor and install the PC3 bypass dongle. It's the little white thing in the pic, with the O2 connector hanging loose. Loosen the lower bolt on the ECU bracket and slip the wire down from behind the ECU. Remove the O2 sensor (or see MiamiDaves How To for leaving it in place as a back up).
Prop tank:
Thanks again to Miami Dave who, mentions the support bracket holding the harness connector. From the left side of the bike part the assorted harnesses carefully until you can see the big blocky connector towards the front of the tank area. Pull it towards you when standing on the left side of the bike and it sips right off, making life easy. See Dave's post for routing the PC3 harness and installation. In the pic the black connectors are the stock harness and the grey connectors are the PC3. Easy-peasy here, black male to grey female, grey male to black female. I put the stck connector back on the metal support, sliding it on from the left, This gets it out of the way and you only have to find room to tuck one set of connectors under the tank. Done under the tank.
Bolt up everything. Do a 12 minute tune and Voila!
Note how clean the left side of the bike looks, it goes from cruiser to bruiser:
There has to be a good use for all of that space under the Rock, I will have to come up with something for there.
Thanks to TravelGuy and MiamiDave, this was a simple install. While it took me about 4.5 hours I worked at a leisurely pace and cleaned up the left and right panels, the bearclaw and the foot pegs as well as the engine block while I had everything apart, plus took pictures. Going full out you could do it in 2 hours flat if the bolts aren't seized.
TravelGuy either jinxed me or gave me good luck on the stock shields removal, depending how you look at it. He said all of the clamps would be bunged up or cross threaded, as most he has seen were that way "but you might have the one bike without that problem." Turns out only one out of the 5 was cross threaded and after a few turns I was able to pry the clamp off with a screw driver. All the rest came off like butter.
Here's the manifold sans shields:
Remove the 3 into 2 chrome cover and the left side chrome cover that hide the muffler clamps.
Next I got on my back and checked out what was doing where the manifold bolts to the Cat box. This clamp came off easily too:
The TORs clamps were next, and they came off pretty smoothly:
The trick in getting the stock cans/TOR's off is to remove the 2 bolts that hold them to their bracket and then since they bend at a 90 degree angle, swing them up and down gently while pulling at the elbow. They slid right off.
Remove the left side single pipe the same way. Now unbolt the two chrome covers on the lower support brackets and the rear pegs. You need to do this to get at the bolts holding the exhaust bracket supports.
Once you remove the brackets replace the chrome covers and the left peg. You need to do this first because later when you bolt the Preds in place they will block the right side cover holes. I found this out the hard way. Leave the right peg off as that bolt also holds up the Preds.
Once you have everything off the cat box there is one bolt holding it in place on the right side. Unbolt it and from the right side pull it towards you and down. The left side has no bolts just 2 rubber grommet mounts that slip onto pegs. It came right off and left a gaping hole that was a gorgeous sight to behold:
It seems to me that the starter motor might live a little longer without all of that heat next to it and might even improve hot starting.
Now remove the O2 sensor from the manifold. It came off easy, considering the heat it has seen and the wire fighting you as you attempt to loosen it.
Now with all of the ancillary crap off, you can unbolt the manifold.
The last time I saw 3 holes that looked this pretty was on a stripper in...ahem but I digress...
Gently remove the old copper gaskets they are thin wire and will be tarnished and won't look shiny like the new ones you hopefully ordered before you started this project.
Next arrange all the pieces and marvel at how much crap goes into a stock exhaust compared to a set of Preds:
My Preds with shields weighed 20lbs. I didn't bother to weigh all of the parts I took off but I estimate they weigh about 40lbs.
Next remove the rear most bolt in the brake/foot peg rail. This lines up with the lower bracket on the Preds.
I put some antisieze on the exhaust studs, slipped the Preds onto the studs and got them fit pretty close to final fit. I loosely put on the stainless washers (so you don't gouge the finish) and the acorn washers. Next I put the right peg on to get the pipes supported. Now go back and tighten the acorns on the exhaust studs. I tightened them all down hand tight and then torqued them down a little each time making several passes. I had to pull on the #3 pipe a little because it wasn't lining up right but it wasn't bad. After all of the exhaust flanges were bolted up nice and even I installed the right peg. i had to lift the pipe while my wife wiggled the peg into the hole, lining up the two index nubs with the holes in the Pred bracket. The holes were a little off, but once the bolt was through the bracket and I started tightening it, the nubs popped into their holes.
Last came the lower bracket. It was bent away from the frame a little and the stock bolt wasn't long enough to engage the threads. I used a slightly longer stainless bolt and stainless washer (again to protect the pipes finish) to pull the bracket in and secure it through the rail hole. Worked like a charm and while I wouldn't recommend it, you could stand on the pipes just in front of the collector and they wouldn't budge.
Remove the right cover and locate the connector for the O2 sensor. Unplug the sensor and install the PC3 bypass dongle. It's the little white thing in the pic, with the O2 connector hanging loose. Loosen the lower bolt on the ECU bracket and slip the wire down from behind the ECU. Remove the O2 sensor (or see MiamiDaves How To for leaving it in place as a back up).
Prop tank:
Thanks again to Miami Dave who, mentions the support bracket holding the harness connector. From the left side of the bike part the assorted harnesses carefully until you can see the big blocky connector towards the front of the tank area. Pull it towards you when standing on the left side of the bike and it sips right off, making life easy. See Dave's post for routing the PC3 harness and installation. In the pic the black connectors are the stock harness and the grey connectors are the PC3. Easy-peasy here, black male to grey female, grey male to black female. I put the stck connector back on the metal support, sliding it on from the left, This gets it out of the way and you only have to find room to tuck one set of connectors under the tank. Done under the tank.
Bolt up everything. Do a 12 minute tune and Voila!
Note how clean the left side of the bike looks, it goes from cruiser to bruiser:
There has to be a good use for all of that space under the Rock, I will have to come up with something for there.
Thanks to TravelGuy and MiamiDave, this was a simple install. While it took me about 4.5 hours I worked at a leisurely pace and cleaned up the left and right panels, the bearclaw and the foot pegs as well as the engine block while I had everything apart, plus took pictures. Going full out you could do it in 2 hours flat if the bolts aren't seized.
