Yep, 20,000 miles or 32,000 kilometers. I did mine around 37,000 kms. There were no 'tight' valves.

Notice the requirement to replace 'fuel hoses' at 4 years regardless of mileage????? Do any of you guys replace the fuel hoses in their cars.... ever??? Why on a motorcycle?

I’m guessing they are talking about the hoses that are submerged in the gas tank with the fuel filter?
 
Ya'all do what you see fit, but I will never use a torque wrench on oil drain bolts.
Seen way too many folk strip their case threads.
If you can not feel a bolt being snug versus too tight, go to a better mechanic . . .
Just sayin' . . .
I have also seen a few strip their case threads by not using a torque wrench :eek: I served my apprenticeship with British Leyland(does not say much) and any mechganic who did not have a torque wrench in the old tool box was what we call a wrench turner not a mechanic,:eek: can you snug them up without a torque of course you can but would you just snog up big end caps on a crankshaft????????? use a torque wrench and when it clicks DO NOT go any more.:D
 
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I have also seen a few strip their case threads by not using a torque wrench :eek: I served my apprenticeship with Brotish Leyland(does not say much) and any mechganic who did not have a torque wrench in the old tool box was what we call a wrench turner not a mechanic,:eek: can you snug them up without a torque of course you can but would you just snog up big end caps on a crankshaft????????? use a torque wrench and when it clicks DO NOT go any more.:D

If one can not feel and determine the tactile torque response of hand to wrench, they had better keep their mitts in their pockets and just watch someone who can. Regarding low torque sensitive bolts into engine cases, I trust my "feel" way more than a mechanical metal device.
 
I’ve learned a lot since then (50yrs)ago.
Just talking about the general membership MrFingers:D stripping threads is an easy thing to do, now the majority of nuts and bolts most of us would never use a torque but certain ones like the rear diff and the sump bolts why take the risk.
 
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My best friend when working on either bike. IMG_0236.JPG IMG_0237.JPG Very accurate. Have a expensive standard click type bar for the heavy stuff. Armstrong makes a very nice torque wrench with a lifetime calibration offer. I take it to work and get it calibrated every six months. My Harley has 100,000 miles on it bought new in 2010 never seen a shop. My Rocket X bought new has 50,000 miles it saw a shop one time for a bike tire. Have worked in the aircraft industry for the last 19 years if you think they work on aircraft parts by the feel of the wrench think again. Using a torque wrench is a sign of a master not a shade tree mechanic. Harley uses a lot of inch pounds torque requirements on some pretty critical parts. To loose and your Fuc3d to tight and it is toast. The Rocket a little more forgiven but it is all the same to me. Right tools for the job. To sit on your golden thrown under the shade tree sounds impressive as #ell. That is all though just talk not the walk. I have spent a lot of money through out the years on quality tools. Both at work and at home. Money saved by doing my own work allows me to purchase such tools with no regrets. So for all you out there that get the impression that if your good there is no need for a torque wrench think again. No one is that good that actually works on motorcycles other than a SHADE TREE MECHANIC WITH A EGO AND POCKET BOOK FOR NUTS AND BOLTS.
 
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