Needs some options/help

Skanska161 · Nov 24, 2017

hey guys,
I am working on installing K&N RX-4010s on my Touring. If you could, check out the pic. I have only bought and mounted 1. You guys this it’s worth going for it? Looks? Also anyone think it’s worth it profomance wise? Also not really sure what I will do with my claw. May buy a new one and try cutting it. Anyway what you guys think?
Thanks!

WyldCFH · Nov 24, 2017

I can't speak to performance, but to me, I would not use them solely due to how far they stick out. Cornering I almost always have my knees gripping the tank, and those would prevent it.

Rushking · Nov 24, 2017

I have the shorter ones that fit under the bear claw and all seems well, also Paul Bryant header crossover tors and pcv.It's Fun with a capital F!

majikdoc · Nov 24, 2017

I would suggest smaller K&N's or a Ram Air

sleeves · Nov 24, 2017

Skanska161 said:
hey guys,
I am working on installing K&N RX-4010s on my Touring. If you could, check out the pic. I have only bought and mounted 1. You guys this it’s worth going for it? Looks? Also anyone think it’s worth it profomance wise? Also not really sure what I will do with my claw. May buy a new one and try cutting it. Anyway what you guys think?
Thanks!

Hi Skanska

On my R3 std I did this, took some jimmying with angles and some tubing to adapt but was happy with result, just left the claw off every bend is a different length and needs to be cut on a different height (same angle though) , found out the hard way.
However, as WyldCFH says, you cannot use your knees to grab the tank. I'm not a good enough rider to get the benefit out of the additional airflow just like the look.

Looks like your already have the smaller K&N's on your bike.

Skanska161 · Nov 24, 2017

sleeves said:
Hi Skanska

On my R3 std I did this, took some jimmying with angles and some tubing to adapt but was happy with result, just left the claw off every bend is a different length and needs to be cut on a different height (same angle though) , found out the hard way.
However, as WyldCFH says, you cannot use your knees to grab the tank. I'm not a good enough rider to get the benefit out of the additional airflow just like the look.

Looks like your already have the smaller K&N's on your bike.

Thanks for the info, and ya I do have the smaller K&Ns, talking to a few people (guys at carpenter) the RX-4040 is one of the only filters that will let the R3 breath 100%. So I'm hoping the 4010s are close enough. And I do like that look. Nice bike man! Thanks!

sleeves · Nov 24, 2017

Skanska161 said:
Thanks for the info, and ya I do have the smaller K&Ns, talking to a few people (guys at carpenter) the RX-4040 is one of the only filters that will let the R3 breath 100%. So I'm hoping the 4010s are close enough. And I do like that look. Nice bike man! Thanks!

Thanks for compliments on bike.

The larger K&N's probably do let the R3 breath 100% but probably up at throttle positions and revs, rarely used, unless drag-racing or general thrashing. The small difference in "normal use" performance vs the inconvenience of these filters makes me question the job but it looks good and I gave my old filters away...

I recently mapped my RPM, TPS, AFR with my Data Logging Software and it shows up just how infrequently you actually use 100% throttle, typical riding its under 30% throttle and up to around 4000rpm. I would say I run around under 10% throttle for 95% of the time when riding. Don't think the additional airflow capability matters too much in these areas.

Not trying to talk you out of it BTW. that would be me being completely hypocritical. I modify just about everything I own. Just pointing out there are trade offs.

In the end would I do this mod again?, Hell Yes

leatal · Nov 24, 2017

Skanska161 said:
hey guys,
I am working on installing K&N RX-4010s on my Touring. If you could, check out the pic. I have only bought and mounted 1. You guys this it’s worth going for it? Looks? Also anyone think it’s worth it profomance wise? Also not really sure what I will do with my claw. May buy a new one and try cutting it. Anyway what you guys think?
Thanks!

Measure the inside diameter 4010s and the outside diameter of the velocity stacks (narrow portion just above the grooved ridge). If they are close to the same measurement, simply slice off the part of the filter that fits over the throttle body and pop the OEM velocity stacks into the hole of the filter. If it fits snug, apply a bead of RTV silicon and reassemble, let dry (overnight), and install on bike. I did this for three Unifilters (UP-4300ST) and it works extremely well. You get the benefit of actual velocity stacks which angle so filter element can be turned up, plus they clamp on and fit the throttle bodies perfectly. Been running this setup all summer and they have held up perfectly. P.S. the unifilters are very inexpensive (about $15 each) and flow extremely well.

Old N' Grumpy · Nov 24, 2017

leatal said:
Measure the inside diameter 4010s and the outside diameter of the velocity stacks (narrow portion just above the grooved ridge). If they are close to the same measurement, simply slice off the part of the filter that fits over the throttle body and pop the OEM velocity stacks into the hole of the filter. If it fits snug, apply a bead of RTV silicon and reassemble, let dry (overnight), and install on bike. I did this for three Unifilters (UP-4300ST) and it works extremely well. You get the benefit of actual velocity stacks which angle so filter element can be turned up, plus they clamp on and fit the throttle bodies perfectly. Been running this setup all summer and they have held up perfectly. P.S. the unifilters are very inexpensive (about $15 each) and flow extremely well.

If you get a chance would you post a pic showing it all done? Also, where did you buy the Unifilters?

Skanska161 · Nov 25, 2017

sleeves said:
Thanks for compliments on bike.

The larger K&N's probably do let the R3 breath 100% but probably up at throttle positions and revs, rarely used, unless drag-racing or general thrashing. The small difference in "normal use" performance vs the inconvenience of these filters makes me question the job but it looks good and I gave my old filters away...

I recently mapped my RPM, TPS, AFR with my Data Logging Software and it shows up just how infrequently you actually use 100% throttle, typical riding its under 30% throttle and up to around 4000rpm. I would say I run around under 10% throttle for 95% of the time when riding. Don't think the additional airflow capability matters too much in these areas.

Not trying to talk you out of it BTW. that would be me being completely hypocritical. I modify just about everything I own. Just pointing out there are trade offs.

In the end would I do this mod again?, Hell Yes

All true and

leatal said:
Measure the inside diameter 4010s and the outside diameter of the velocity stacks (narrow portion just above the grooved ridge). If they are close to the same measurement, simply slice off the part of the filter that fits over the throttle body and pop the OEM velocity stacks into the hole of the filter. If it fits snug, apply a bead of RTV silicon and reassemble, let dry (overnight), and install on bike. I did this for three Unifilters (UP-4300ST) and it works extremely well. You get the benefit of actual velocity stacks which angle so filter element can be turned up, plus they clamp on and fit the throttle bodies perfectly. Been running this setup all summer and they have held up perfectly. P.S. the unifilters are very inexpensive (about $15 each) and flow extremely well.

Awesome idea. Thanks!

Needs some options/help

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