Need help guys

[TriumPhil]

If you are going to do the fix yourself and it is the detent spring, make sure that you get all of the old spring out. When mine broke there were some bits that ended up in the bottom corner of the engine case that had to be fished out with a magnet. If it isn't a bad spring, the engine will likely have to be cracked open to get out the other probable culprit, which is a factory error. I won't burden you with the details about that unless your detent spring is intact.

 

[Big_Gnome]

Update for ya
I pulled the front cover off and the two broken bits of the detent spring were sitting in the motor how lucky was that
Next question is if i use a rattle gun to undo the clutch nut will it damage anything in the gearbox if so has someone gor the part # for the tool i need to losen the nut.
Cheers Phill

 

[warp9.9]

Ok got the usual run around from the shop ( motor out ect) I have ordered the spring and gaskets.

Was just wondering looking at the manual do i need some special tool to remove the clutch basket or can it be done some other way

Cheers Phill

Sorry but if them morons think they have to take the engine out to change the detent spring I would take the bike somewhere else. If you have any mechanical ability you can do it yourself. ignore the fact that this motor is out of the bike as it was for a different reason.
In the picture below the moto is upside down but look the the left og the splined shaft down about 8 Oclock



that mechanisim you see has the detent spring we are refering to and has all the parts that has to do with it staying in gear and shifting and the foot shifter on the bike returing for the next shift. Ther is a shifting spool drum in side the engine but it is controlled by this mechanisim.

Now with the engine in the bike and upright of course just because its easier to do this one without standing on your head in the picture below you can just see the mechanisim behind the clutch bascket at about 1 Oclock



SO as you can see the engine does not have to com out to change this you just have to remove the clutch cover and 22 mm nut holding the clutch backet on. (This will not even move the timiing on the valves as long as you follow the books directions and with the help of us along with the fact that you can read you can do this yourself. If you cannot turn a spanner and they insist on taking the motor out you need to go to a different dealer. Hopefully your not over on the west coast by Perth because at least one of the mechanics there has one less brain cell then god gave a rubber frog.

anyway below is a closer shot of the home made tool to lock the clutch basket and inner drum as IDK was reffering to







this is a lot cheaper then buying the plastic tool from Triumph pictured below



If you were in the USA or had some time I would make you one myself and post it to you but I know your into your riding time of the year down under.

Below is a close up of the deten mechanisim with the spring you need to change on it. Its the one in the back with the hooks on it.


Also incase you were interested the picture below is of the external clutch liftershaft return spring mod I did on mine oh some 30,000+ miles ago

 

[TriumPhil]

Hey, BG! Now that was a good bit of news.

When Scott (Warp 9.9) rereads your last post (#15) and sees your question about the clutch nut, I'm certain that he'll readily have your answer.:Tip-Hat:

 

[warp9.9]

Update for ya
I pulled the front cover off and the two broken bits of the detent spring were sitting in the motor how lucky was that
Next question is if i use a rattle gun to undo the clutch nut will it damage anything in the gearbox if so has someone gor the part # for the tool i need to losen the nut.
Cheers Phill

Ok Phil the tool I shown above locks the cluth basket with the inner clutch hub. You have to remove a few of the clutch fibers and steels remember which one was the front one. then the toll will fit in. But if you have a impact wrench and the right size socket for the nut you can just hold the inner clutch hub with your hands and spin it right off with the impact wrench quicker than stink on crap. When you change th espring out and go to put the basket back on you MUSY MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE OIL PUMP DIVE PINS LINED UP IN THE HOLES ON THE BACK OF THE CLUTCH BASKET. I would also purchase a new nut for the input shaft to make sure you have good material to punch into the little groove milled on the end of the input shaft. This is stricky for anit rotation so it won't come loose (works like a lock washer or cotter pin) let me find somemore pictures.

see the holes on the back of the clutch basket in the center close to the needle bearing. There are 6 of them and are about 6.4 mm in size.


them 6 holes need to line up with the 6 pins on the oil pump drive sprocket pictured below



the pins are where my little fingers are blocking the view and the gear is on the pump that my first finger is pointing to in the picture below.



do not let the picture of the clutch basket scare you it is different because it is a custom billet forged one made by MTC Engineering.
yours is the same except for the black basket and the larger rivets on the backlash eliminator.


I hope this helps

 

[Big_Gnome]

Thanks Warp you have been a great help got the baskett off just wating on parts should be back up n running by the weekend

And yes its great riding in aussie bit bloody hot at the moment round 32 c

Cheers phill

 

[warp9.9]

Thanks Warp you have been a great help got the baskett off just wating on parts should be back up n running by the weekend

And yes its great riding in aussie bit bloody hot at the moment round 32 c

Cheers phill

Glad its working out for you. I will take that heat over the 4-6 inches of snow we are supposed to get tomorrow evening

 

[Paul Bryant]

Warp, with referance to "Also incase you were interested the picture below is of the external clutch liftershaft return spring mod I did on mine oh some 30,000+ miles ago" what was your reason for doing this ?

 

[warp9.9]

First it looked like the newer style blower case did not alow the lifter shaft to go in far enough to center the shaft with the lifter piece. and whenn it did it pinched the spring in the botom of the groove on th elifter shaft against the blower case. Well in messing with all this crap I found that if your wrap the lifter shaft around to much when installing the clutch cover with the lifter shaft you break the spring. Plus It just did not seem strong enough to me to insure the liftershaft was returning off the lifter piece. (I did not want it rubbing between the parts and wanted to insure I could get the right freeplay. That and getting the part from Triumph was quite a wait at the time. So I thought wouldn't it be better to have one on the outside so if it actually broke you did not have any metal bits in the engine. Anyway it sure makes it easier to put the cover and get the liftershaft to scoop up the lifter piece and you did not have to worry about is the return spring tension right. I am not saying it was or is needed but it is sure easier to do it that way and so I never went back. when I take Gracie apart I will do the same thing also. Now if anyone needs the OEM spring It did come months after I did the change so let me know and I will gladly post it to ya.

 

[zimtuff]

Glad its working out for you. I will take that heat over the 4-6 inches of snow we are supposed to get tomorrow evening

I wouldnt mind some snow to rub on my head.

The dealer told me 4 hours is the time given to replace detent spring