melted 30 amp fuse

HellFire said:

Are your aftermarket fog lights on a relay? And all your aftermarket accessories with relays should be drawing power directly from the battery via their own fuse so that each accessory is powered by it's OWN circuit. The only part of the relay that should be fused with a bike fuse is the part that is energized by the on/off switch.

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Grumpy_Rocket said:

Easiest way to check is to have a shop measure how many amps are being pulled through the wire the fuse feeds. That will give an idea as to what is causing it.

In my 16 years of playing with electricity I have never once found a issue where bad fuses was the root cause of a problem as far as replacing a fuse and having the same thing happen. There is too much of a current draw on the line, that's why your having issues.

What number 30 amp fuse is blowing on the bike? If its the 30 amp ignition switch then you likely have a short with the ignition switch. The headlight relay mod is designed to use the factory wire to trigger a connection between a larger direct to battery wire and the headlights (if I am not mistaken). If the relay is bad or if the trigger wire for the relay is shorting out on something, you could get a high amp draw. I would pull the melting fuse and pull the relay and use a ohm meter and check for continuity between the ground and that wire that is powered by the melthing fuse. You could also pull all the bulbs and check for power on the ground wire which would indicate that you have a short as well.

You need to elminate everything one by one. Remove the bulbs/disconnect the harnesses to bulbs and put them back in one by one until you see a big spike in the amp draw (if you have a meter on the line) or until the fuse/wire starts getting hot. If you don't fix it soon you might do permenant damage to the wiring harness, that could require a complete replacement. To behonest I think you already have some melted/shorted wires, and the fuse is just taking the heat instead of the wiring.

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TheKid said:

Start feeling for hot wires. Something is about to fry. DO NOT TRY THIS!! When I was 16 and working at a dealership, a senior mechanic showed me how to find a short. He put a cotter pin across the fuse and said watch for smoke. We (he) found it. The reverse light switch on a 1976 chevy monza. It was a standard shift and had to be in reverse to get the key out. Hence, it did not blow all of the time. I learned alot that day. How to re-wire a car. Idiot.
But like they are saying, something is drawing too much. Sears sells a volt meter/amp clamp( you will need D/C of course) alot cheaper than a Fluke meter. Just start checking one at a time. By the way, take the walworld lights out of the circuit and see if it starts feeling better!
Kid

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bagman said:

for your keyless, did you do the single relay or the 3 relay setup? If you used the single relay, that could be your problem. You bypass OEM fuses 4 & 8, so there is more draw on the main fuse 2.

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bagman said:

Page 4
talks about it and at the end I have the modified diagram for the rocket (DEcosse's plan, just changed to match up with the rocket wire colors & how I installed it).

wiring the keyless only using a single relay (like page one of the link above) by passes fuses 4 & 8 because you hook the white w/ blue wire to 30, and all the rest except the orange to 87 on the relay.

If you look at the wiring diagram, the ignition switch connects white w/ blue to blue w/ yellow & green. then connects red w/ blue to red w/ orange. then connects orange to orange w/green. It's three different circuits. that's why there should be three relays.

Now if you look at the fuse box, the battery is supplying power directly to fuses 1-4. Using the single relay method, the draw that should be going through fuse 4 is now added to fuse 2.

Then next problem is the blue w/ yellow supply's power to fuse 8 & 9, but using the single relay method, the red w/ blue wire is now supplying power to fuse 8 on the other side too.

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