Is there any adjustment in the driveline?

grampi · May 28, 2016

I've noticed there seems to be a lot of free play in my R3R's driveline...so much so, that when I shift from 1st to 2nd, there's about a half a second of delay before the bike jerks after the free play is taken up...sorta like revving the engine a bit and popping the clutch between gears. I've tried shifting at different RPMs, shifting as smooth as possible, but no matter how I shift (unless I'm just flat out gettin on it) there doesn't seem to be any way to avoid the jerk. Are there any adjustments that can be made to get rid of the excessive free play?

Tripps · May 28, 2016

Something doesn't sound right...

BillB · May 28, 2016

grampi said:
I've noticed there seems to be a lot of free play in my R3R's driveline...so much so, that when I shift from 1st to 2nd, there's about a half a second of delay before the bike jerks after the free play is taken up...sorta like revving the engine a bit and popping the clutch between gears. I've tried shifting at different RPMs, shifting as smooth as possible, but no matter how I shift (unless I'm just flat out gettin on it) there doesn't seem to be any way to avoid the jerk. Are there any adjustments that can be made to get rid of the excessive free play?

I seem to remember that there are cushions in the rear wheel where it mates to the drive. Let me go out to the shop and I will look at my spare wheel.

Nope, I must have been confusing it with something else that I have had torn apart lately. Don't have a clue Grampi there is a lot of stuff in there that could get loose though. Hope that someone can point you in the right direction.

Rocket Scientist · May 28, 2016

As was mentioned, I would check the "cush drive" in the rear wheel. Next I would look for worn splines where the drive shaft mates with the final drive. If that is all good it pretty much leaves the torsional damper just inside of where the drive shaft enters the engine. Haven't heard of one of them failing, but the bearings on each end of it are known to fail.

kmrmike · May 28, 2016

grampi said:
I've noticed there seems to be a lot of free play in my R3R's driveline...so much so, that when I shift from 1st to 2nd, there's about a half a second of delay before the bike jerks after the free play is taken up...sorta like revving the engine a bit and popping the clutch between gears. I've tried shifting at different RPMs, shifting as smooth as possible, but no matter how I shift (unless I'm just flat out gettin on it) there doesn't seem to be any way to avoid the jerk. Are there any adjustments that can be made to get rid of the excessive free play?

I have the same symptoms with my R3T since new, now with 60,000 miles. The speed(not fast...or slow) in which I shift gears helps alleviate the problem.

grampi · May 28, 2016

Rocket Scientist said:
As was mentioned, I would check the "cush drive" in the rear wheel. Next I would look for worn splines where the drive shaft mates with the final drive. If that is all good it pretty much leaves the torsional damper just inside of where the drive shaft enters the engine. Haven't heard of one of them failing, but the bearings on each end of it are known to fail.

It's hard to imagine anything failing already with just 9K on the odo, especially considering this bike hasn't seen any hard use, but I suppose anything is possible. I would have to have the Triumph dealer check this stuff out as I would have no clue what I'm looking for...

Claviger · May 29, 2016

Second gear has less dogs than the other gears, as a result it has the most drive line lash. Always irked me as well, slow shifts that should be smooth aren't quite.

The best solution Iv found is letting 1st go to a little higher RPM, 3k or so, and shifting quickly without letting the engine slow too much and being quick with the clutch, basically timing it so the clutch is fully engaged by the rpm it would be at at the speed if you were in gear. Really hard to describe but there is definitely a technique to ride around the reduced dog count of second gear.

IMFASTTOO · May 29, 2016

grampi said:
I've noticed there seems to be a lot of free play in my R3R's driveline...so much so, that when I shift from 1st to 2nd, there's about a half a second of delay before the bike jerks after the free play is taken up...sorta like revving the engine a bit and popping the clutch between gears. I've tried shifting at different RPMs, shifting as smooth as possible, but no matter how I shift (unless I'm just flat out gettin on it) there doesn't seem to be any way to avoid the jerk. Are there any adjustments that can be made to get rid of the excessive free play?

I hope you use the clutch when you shift

leatal · May 29, 2016

Claviger said:
Second gear has less dogs than the other gears, as a result it has the most drive line lash. Always irked me as well, slow shifts that should be smooth aren't quite.

The best solution Iv found is letting 1st go to a little higher RPM, 3k or so, and shifting quickly without letting the engine slow too much and being quick with the clutch, basically timing it so the clutch is fully engaged by the rpm it would be at at the speed if you were in gear. Really hard to describe but there is definitely a technique to ride around the reduced dog count of second gear.

I totally agree with the quick shift and only pulling the clutch handle in about 1/3 of the way (short shift). I had the same problem because no matter how smooth you change into second, the bike seems to jerk when letting out the clutch, especially if you use the full clutch lever. A short quick shift make changing gears smooth as butter!

grampi · May 29, 2016

Claviger said:
Second gear has less dogs than the other gears, as a result it has the most drive line lash. Always irked me as well, slow shifts that should be smooth aren't quite.

The best solution Iv found is letting 1st go to a little higher RPM, 3k or so, and shifting quickly without letting the engine slow too much and being quick with the clutch, basically timing it so the clutch is fully engaged by the rpm it would be at at the speed if you were in gear. Really hard to describe but there is definitely a technique to ride around the reduced dog count of second gear.

Your post tells me it's a design problem, and not something for which I need to have the bike serviced. I will have to work on my shifting technique...

Is there any adjustment in the driveline?

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