install tach and volt meter (digital)

[cardinal93]

I'm actually planning on doing this with a tablet (and remove all stock instruments). However, it will have a hood or glare screen cover so that's not an issue. Still planning phases right now. I have the tablet and the plug. Debating a temp mounting over the instruments until I'm comfortable. Of course everything is on hold during the long boat ride to the states.

I've never had glare problems with my navigon sitting in its case? I just set max intensity and tilt it down.

 

[barbagris]

I've never had glare problems with my navigon sitting in its case? I just set max intensity and tilt it down.

Here right now - I'll guaranty that there is so much fierce ambient light NOTHING backlit will be visible. And so hot that many LED systems will have to gate down to stop the LED overheating.

Dash-lights invisible if sun actually is on them. Also a lot of LCD will actually BLACK- OUT with the heat of direct sun. The kindle e-books have **** good displays as they use ambient light to gain the contrast. Here I'm not sure you can remove ALL instruments - a dedicated speedo (even a bicycle speedo) is a must to be road legal.

It's a bit off topic but ages ago Wayne Tripp (R3 Dyno God) published using a KOSO RX2N cluster. If Smiths did a waterproof version of their PRISM range I'd fit them in a flash. They are stunningly visible day or night. I have one in my old beloved Guzzi - it does not see wet.

 

[kmrmike]

I have the garmin ECO- Route system for my R3T and even with a store bought glare shield, it simply is not visible in bright sunlight.

 

[Macrider]

I do not have any problem at all seeing mine. But mine is tucked just under my fairing, and also we do not have as many super bright sunny days as you might have in Florida..
In answer to the questions, yes it plugs right into the OBD II plug.
Yes plugged in all the time.
No battery drain.
More info here

http://www.r3owners.net/threads/garmin-gauges-ecoroute.10049/

 

[idk]

Back to the OP, rather than wrapping the wire around a spark plug lead to get an induction pulse signal, why not attach it to one of the low tension connectors on the coil? That will give you a definite pulse.

 

[barbagris]

Back to the OP, rather than wrapping the wire around a spark plug lead to get an induction pulse signal, why not attach it to one of the low tension connectors on the coil? That will give you a definite pulse.

It also might blow the bugger up if it expects an induction or 5-9V ECU grade pulse. But that would be TEST2 if TEST 1 fails.

 

[DEcosse]

The tach should work tapping off the coil drive signal (any of the three) - you want the Green/xxxx wire, not the Brown/Pink

But not knowing what protection is on the front end of the gauge, you can add some protection with couple of inexpensive components
It should work with a 5V zener - if not, try a 12V

No need for a board or anything - just solder your components right in line with the wires and heat-shrink over.

You really should include this Corey - as barbagris indicated above there could potentially be large spikes on that coil negative and this simple addition will protect your tach

 

[Corey]

Back to the OP, rather than wrapping the wire around a spark plug lead to get an induction pulse signal, why not attach it to one of the low tension connectors on the coil? That will give you a definite pulse.

Is there any chance you could explain to me where that is on a R3T?

 

[warp9.9]

Is there any chance you could explain to me where that is on a R3T?

the two coils on the right are the easiest to get to I would try the front of the two going to number 2 cylinder

This is a classic but I bet yours is close

do not pay any attention to the aluminum pipe it is the intake charge tube from the inter cooler. It should be pretty close to the same spot on the R3T

 

[barbagris]

The tach should work tapping off the coil drive signal (any of the three) - you want the Green/xxxx wire, not the Brown/Pink

But not knowing what protection is on the front end of the gauge, you can add some protection with couple of inexpensive components
It should work with a 5V zener - if not, try a 12V

No need for a board or anything - just solder your components right in line with the wires and heat-shrink over.

Ken - off tack - What do you use to draw your circuits?