Inexpensive Starter Replacement

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So when you fit the next D4 Cat engine upgrade @Claviger you may need the upgrade versions available from even yours. By reading the special notes re alternates I found that :
  • The standard version for the Aussie equivalent Toyota Camry 4Cyl 2000cc was only 1.2Kw
  • There are stock 1.4 Kw versions for some models; and
  • 1.6Kw upgrades for 4WD or commercial vehicles.
The latter 1.6Kw version is an intriguing PMGR starter which have no field coils like positive-engagement starters do. This means that power is sent directly to the starter armature through the brushes and commutator, meaning less battery power is wasted energizing the field coils and that less heat is generated by the starter as well.

Lots of great info here re starter motors and torque and performance.

The higher torque starters are specifically designed for 16:1 and higher compression ratios and are not really designed for use in your stock or slightly modified street car. You could end up buying too much torque and spending too much money. Although a 200-lb.ft. starter will work fine in any application, your standard small-block engine will only require 160-lb.ft. if the compression ratio is less than 11:1, or 180-lb-ft. if the compression ratio is higher than 11:1. There seems to be a lot of marketing of PMGR starters by kilowatt ratings. Most are advertised between 1.4kw to 2.0kw, but don't be deceived by the kilowatt rating. Two starters sitting side by side and advertising 1.7kw can have different torque specifications.

https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2005/11/High-Torque-Starters/1281603.html
 
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hey guys, my 14 roadster also experienced the click no start a few weeks ago with only 8K miles on it. battery and connections seems to be good. just a loud click and at that point ecu resets itself after 5-10 seconds. It does start popping clutch downhill. So I got the 17774N-P from discount starter. Got the oem alternator out. Trying to understand, do I move whatever I can from 17774N-P to oem starter or use the new starter and extend connector wires?
 
Remove the two long bolts holding the motor on to the snout on both starters. Then take the NEW starter motor and mount it on the rocket snout, use the new longer screws to fasten it. Then put that in the bike.

Simple and easy, no wire changes required.
 
Remove the two long bolts holding the motor on to the snout on both starters. Then take the NEW starter motor and mount it on the rocket snout, use the new longer screws to fasten it. Then put that in the bike.

Simple and easy, no wire changes required.
I just did mine and I also along with changing over the gear bendix, I also had to use the oem spring and ball; also a new solenoid plunger from the rebuild kit, because the one from discount starter was at least an inch or so too long pushing out the gear mechanism, if that is not also changed the gear from the starter will not pull back far enough from the fly wheel once the bike starts! "Did you also have this issue?
 
I had the 1.4 starter and after the mucking about switching the part over never regretted it, it spun the motor like nobodies business
Got the same starter, and I simply love the power she cranks with; why didn't triumph use this type starter from the get go, "I don't know! "Be Safe"
 
Nope, I left nothing out of the procedure above.
Try using the motor and the new solenoid and you will have an additional task, because like I said the solenoid plunger stem from the new starter is
too long and the ball and spring is different, if you just take the solenoid stem from a new solenoid repair kit and use the original spring and ball; Now you have a completely upgraded starter with the exception of the front gear Bendix! What you did was simply replace the motor, that's obvious and good enough also, but I went a bit further with the motor and solenoid and she cranks over lovely.
"Be Safe bro"
 
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