smokit2

Supercharged
Joined
Mar 20, 2011
Messages
239
Location
Evanston Wyoming
Ride
'05 R3 classic '11 R3T
I have a 2011 touring that has decided not to idle any more. I have a power commander 6 installed which has pros and cons but, I need advise on getting it to stay running with out the dyno again
Thanks
 
Sounds like the injectors are dirty assuming everything else is good (like gas). You can try some dump in Sea Foam and see if that helps with the idling. If not you may need to pull the injectors and do a proper cleanout. If you have a TuneECU and can plug that into your ECU it will give you some pertinent data as far as vacuum pressure and other bits to help diagnose your problem.
 
I would spray the springs returns on the throttle bodies with wd40 or other cleaner
Do a wot and let it fly shut a couple of times.
You can use a thermal gun for checking which cyl is not firing
 
Sounds like the injectors are dirty assuming everything else is good (like gas). You can try some dump in Sea Foam and see if that helps with the idling. If not you may need to pull the injectors and do a proper cleanout. If you have a TuneECU and can plug that into your ECU it will give you some pertinent data as far as vacuum pressure and other bits to help diagnose your problem.
All I run is ethanol free. I'll give the sea foam a shot. Amazing I happen to have some on hand...
 
If the injectors are clean and the fuel rail is flowing properly then you're down to either a fuel pump issue or sparking problem. The idle is set by the fuel injection system and ignition timing circuits in the ECU so it's not like dorking with a carbed system. I had some bad gas in my Gen 1 Rocket and the fuel system idle adapted to the bad gas and I couldn't get it to even start until I cleaned the system out. As Turbo suggested, spray all the linkages and roll the throttle stop to stop a few times, lube the cables and then see what you get.
 
Could be many things, but you may want to check your vacuum lines to make sure they're not cracked. In my case, on my previous '11 Roadster, I had the K&N filters and therefore had capped off a couple of places on the throttle body (as necessary with that setup). Turned out those rubber caps were cracked and that was the cause of my problem. Other things that come to mind (in no certain order) that have not already been mentioned would be fuel filter, loose coil leads (the thin wires) and finally the notorious secondary TPS.
 
If the injectors are clean and the fuel rail is flowing properly then you're down to either a fuel pump issue or sparking problem. The idle is set by the fuel injection system and ignition timing circuits in the ECU so it's not like dorking with a carbed system. I had some bad gas in my Gen 1 Rocket and the fuel system idle adapted to the bad gas and I couldn't get it to even start until I cleaned the system out. As Turbo suggested, spray all the linkages and roll the throttle stop to stop a few times, lube the cables and then see what you get.
If the injectors are clean and the fuel rail is flowing properly then you're down to either a fuel pump issue or sparking problem. The idle is set by the fuel injection system and ignition timing circuits in the ECU so it's not like dorking with a carbed system. I had some bad gas in my Gen 1 Rocket and the fuel system idle adapted to the bad gas and I couldn't get it to even start until I cleaned the system out. As Turbo suggested, spray all the linkages and roll the throttle stop to stop a few times, lube the cables and then see what you get.
fuel filter was my first though. Then I got stupid and fueled up... going to try the linkage stops and journeyman's vacuum lines.
Thanks Captains
 
The more we know the less we have to guess, and people will guess (it cost them nothing). What does not idling mean? Is it otherwise fine power wise?
 
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