Here Comes the Beaver

The EB kit isn't the only way to go, it can be done with a single relay and the splicing of one wire in the oem loom. The required bits and pieces are available from any auto wiring component suppliers for a few pounds (dollars).

I did my R3C in about three hours - only needed to remove the right side cover, make up a few short wires with connectors and connect up. I also used a fused relay that enables me to disconnect the headlights whilst working on the bike and be able to start the engine.

Not knocking the EB kit, just saying there is an alternative that is cheaper and doesn't need so much modification of the standard wiring loom.
 
The EB kit isn't the only way to go, it can be done with a single relay and and the splicing of one wire in the oem loom. The required bits and pieces are available from any auto wiring component suppliers for a few pounds (dollars).

I did my R3C in about three hours - only needed to remove the right side cover, make up a few short wires with connectors and connect up. I also used a fused relay that enables me to disconnect the headlights whilst working on the bike and be able to start the engine.

Not knocking the EB kit, just saying there is an alternative that is cheaper and doesn't need so much modification of the standard wiring loom.
Just curious where you used Only 1 relay which wire you spliced as I and quite a few others have as the EB kit does used two relays (1 HI beam and 1 Low beam) to splice in to a single wire you would only be shifting the Hi load to another Switch (dipper switch) which again is going to cause resistance and possible switch burnout(this time the dipper switch) not that I am criticizing you but more out of curiosity I ask where are you splicing? The wiring in the Rocket headlight is inadequate to cope with the load and by using 2 x 30amp relays fused or not (I chose to put a fuse in the the Battery end of the supply wire for the same reason and it is there under the seat next to the other fuses.

Hey Britman if you are handy with a set of wire cutters, crimper tool and heat shrink and soldering iron and have basic electrical skills yes you can do your self for half the cost of an EB kit.
If you do some searching on the ignition switch topic you will find detailed instruction by other and myself and if you lived anywhere near me I would as I have done for others do it for you, it only takes a an hour once you have all the materials, very simple job
 
Just curious where you used Only 1 relay which wire you spliced as I and quite a few others have as the EB kit does used two relays (1 HI beam and 1 Low beam) to splice in to a single wire you would only be shifting the Hi load to another Switch (dipper switch) which again is going to cause resistance and possible switch burnout(this time the dipper switch) not that I am criticizing you but more out of curiosity I ask where are you splicing? The wiring in the Rocket headlight is inadequate to cope with the load and by using 2 x 30amp relays fused or not (I chose to put a fuse in the the Battery end of the supply wire for the same reason and it is there under the seat next to the other fuses.

Hey Britman if you are handy with a set of wire cutters, crimper tool and heat shrink and soldering iron and have basic electrical skills yes you can do your self for half the cost of an EB kit.
If you do some searching on the ignition switch topic you will find detailed instruction by other and myself and if you lived anywhere near me I would as I have done for others do it for you, it only takes a an hour once you have all the materials, very simple job

Hey Hanso, I don't know how Battersea did his wiring but I'm guessing that he used a single relay switched from the dip/full beam switch & using normally open & normally closed contacts so that power is always fed to either dipped lights or full beam so long as ignition is on. Saves a relay. I thought about making my own harness up but just got lazy & I am waiting on one from EB along with a PC8 fuse block. While I'm doing it I'm going to measure the resistance of that wiring through the ignition switch, I want to know what the voltage drop is across it, if it really does improve the lighting as people say then it must drop the voltage by a considerable amount, but then 1/2 ohm would drop it a couple of volts.
 
Tracked my order today from EB. It seems that it is held up due to an additional payment & carrier charge, being mindful that my order came to £131 including postage here is the charge in addition that I have had to pay today. Beware all brits, you may pay more than you think. NOT the fault of Eastern Beaver, just rip off Britain.

Charge Parcel Payments
Charge Reference(s):
79037764146345000
Delivery Date:
02/12/2011
Payment Date:
01/12/2011
Payment Method:
Credit/Debit - Card Holder Not Present

Payment Event:
Payment Received

Total Amount:
£36.48

Our Customs Handling Fee and any delivery charge included in the Total Amount paid are zero rated for VAT purposes.

:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
Tracked my order today from EB. It seems that it is held up due to an additional payment & carrier charge, being mindful that my order came to £131 including postage here is the charge in addition that I have had to pay today. Beware all brits, you may pay more than you think. NOT the fault of Eastern Beaver, just rip off Britain.

Charge Parcel Payments
Charge Reference(s):
79037764146345000
Delivery Date:
02/12/2011
Payment Date:
01/12/2011
Payment Method:
Credit/Debit - Card Holder Not Present

Payment Event:
Payment Received

Total Amount:
£36.48

Our Customs Handling Fee and any delivery charge included in the Total Amount paid are zero rated for VAT purposes.
:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
:eek: outrageous, Make your own or get some one you know that understands basic electronics to PM Me, happy to explain it is sh!t easy... no harder than wireing up a set of driving lights
 
Just curious where you used Only 1 relay which wire you spliced..............

You are right Hanso, I spliced the relay into the blue wire coming from the Starter Relay to the Dip Switch. The starter relay is under the right hand side cover and so very close to the battery. I put the fused relay behind the battery allowing very short cable runs. Full current does still run through the dip switch but imo the weakness is in the ignition switch. Its my understanding that the handlebar switchgear is common across most Triumph models and there doesn't seem to be the same kind of problems with dip switches.

This really is a very simple wiring mod and is similar to what Triumph have done on the 2011 Roadster. If anyone wants more detail I will gladly post it on here.



Tracked my order today from EB. It seems that it is held up due to an additional payment & carrier charge, being mindful that my order came to £131 including postage here is the charge in addition that I have had to pay today. Beware all brits, you may pay more than you think. NOT the fault of Eastern Beaver, just rip off Britain.

Charge Parcel Payments
Charge Reference(s):
79037764146345000
Delivery Date:
02/12/2011
Payment Date:
01/12/2011
Payment Method:
Credit/Debit - Card Holder Not Present

Payment Event:
Payment Received

Total Amount:
£36.48

Our Customs Handling Fee and any delivery charge included in the Total Amount paid are zero rated for VAT purposes.
:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

Exactly why I did it myself.
 
I am giving the R3 the Eastern Beaver H4 headlight relay for Christmas. I don't really do that much night riding, but no more ignition switch replacement would be a great benefit. I read the instructions on the website about a dozen times, increasing the size of my bald spot substantially from WTF is he talking about head scratching, then I did a search here. Seems to be a pretty straight forward install thanks to "tdragger" and others who took the time to really explain the procedure and post pictures. I know it has been said before, but one more time won't hurt. R3owners.net is best site around for information exchange and members that go above and beyond to help fellow Captains out. Thanks again all and I am really looking forward to the arrival of the Beaver......


Ouch. I sort of went with the pull the tank up and start there approach. Obviously I didn't hit the mark. Jim did a bit of cut/paste with what I sent him but I thought it was straight forward. Hmmnn.... maybe not.:eek:

OK I just went to Jim's site and the instructions I had sent to ease the install for 1st timers is no longer on his page (for whatever reason). I'll send Jim an email and see what's up. (whew, I thought it was me).
 
I was going to make my own harness but I got lazy & was ordering a PC8 anyway so thought I'd just get the EB one at the same time. The damm thing is bought & paid for now & this added charge is paid as of today so no point dwelling on it now, it's arriving tomorrow so a busy weekend ahead. It better be good.:):):):):)
 
You are right Hanso, I spliced the relay into the blue wire coming from the Starter Relay to the Dip Switch. The starter relay is under the right hand side cover and so very close to the battery. I put the fused relay behind the battery allowing very short cable runs. Full current does still run through the dip switch but imo the weakness is in the ignition switch. Its my understanding that the handlebar switchgear is common across most Triumph models and there doesn't seem to be the same kind of problems with dip switches.

This really is a very simple wiring mod and is similar to what Triumph have done on the 2011 Roadster. If anyone wants more detail I will gladly post it on here.





Exactly why I did it myself.

All I can say good luck with the dip switch, is make sure you keep the dipper switch maintained with regular application of electrical grease and you will still get resistance at the dipper switch therefore not the full power to lights= less brightness than is possible
 
Not only that, the wires in the loom of some Rockets seem to be a thinner gauge. Where the wires break out of the loom for the headlight connectors check and see the difference in size. The wires to the headlight are good so no need to replace them, you can place your relays here and jump your park-light wire straight across. Don't forget to supply a good earth, as well as power from the battery to the relays.
 
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