Have 1500rpm idle and P0505

[HansO]

I may have identified an intermittent connection which prevents the ISCV getting either power or control signal. Not digging into it just yet, and have both tps and ISCV set to equal voltage so the bike will idle properly, though I do think it is in a limp mode...which is no less powerful than normal for what it's worth. If a wire is the problem it would result from handling when I was putting in the ramair kit. Hopefully the point to patch will be easily found.

the TPS should be 0.6 and the stepper 0.72, I know (@warp9.9) Scot said there is a tolerance but I found that unless you set them right on the correct settings there will still be some fluffing around in the idle speed

 

[warp9.9]

the TPS should be 0.6 and the stepper 0.72, I know (@warp9.9) Scot said there is a tolerance but I found that unless you set them right on the correct settings there will still be some fluffing around in the idle speed

Hans just mentioning the triumph tolerance which I like to hit the middle of in each. If its .6 volts +/- .02 I hit in the middle between .58 and .62

 

[HansO]

wasn't having a go at you Scot, more so at Triumphs overly generous tolerances I like the bike running spot on so adjustments need to be spot on ... just me being a fussy bastid

 

[HansO]

I like to tell people the correct no tolerance setting as I know some are not so fussy and if you were to say it can be .62 then some dumb bunny will think .63 is still OK ..... sit it spot on and All is Good

 

[rocketjohn]

If I set it .6. and .72 I get a high idle because I cannot get the ISCV bottomed out, and therefore cannot get anywhere close to the .50mm gap at the roller. If I keep it .6 and .6 it runs right at 900rpm, which keeps it rideable. When I isolate the intermittent wire and patch it, I will have the ability to get it set right once again. It would be nice to take it in for annual service without having to track down a broken wire too.

 

[rocketjohn]

Well, finally it is fixed....one of the wires was broke right in two, where the pigtail turns and goes up and around the throttle body to the main harness. Soldered it together, did some shrink wrap and lo! ISCV reset actually works! The check engine light is out and staying out.


Above is the bundle redone with convoluted tubing, and some high temp tape to hold it together. The original clips are now superfluous, so some zip ties hold it up. When bearclaw is in place you'd swear it's all factory! Now that the must do stuff is done, I can dive into the want to do stuff!

 

[HansO]

Awesome good on ya

 

[MIG]

Well, finally it is fixed....one of the wires was broke right in two, where the pigtail turns and goes up and around the throttle body to the main harness. Soldered it together, did some shrink wrap and lo! ISCV reset actually works! The check engine light is out and staying out.


Above is the bundle redone with convoluted tubing, and some high temp tape to hold it together. The original clips are now superfluous, so some zip ties hold it up. When bearclaw is in place you'd swear it's all factory! Now that the must do stuff is done, I can dive into the want to do stuff!

OUTSTANDING!!! Good to hear! ...now go have fun with the "want to do stuff..."
-MIG

 

[rocketjohn]

A thing I noted while working on this issue....is that if the ECu is in limp mode, there will be about a 1 minute delay when you push the start button before it will actually crank. If I didn't know better, the bike is thinking, "do I really want to do this?"