GET LIT UP!

[xlr8tion]

Yes we all know the anemic Candle Powered Headlamps that come on our Rockets.....

Some of you BIG DOGS drop 700+ for J and Ws or Daymakers some us go the less expensive route.

I just got my pair of Cyclops 3800 Lumen H4's from Rocky Mount for 59 each for a net cost of 118 delivered.

Took me all of 1 hour to do the mod and that was that I had never disassembled a Rocket head lamp.

Enough talk...Check these results....I took one pick with the LED and OEM side by side and when I got both installed I went out for a night ride and was burning the pine cones off the pines....

Great CONSPICUITY mod...IMHO...best 118 dollars spent relative to the UBER WEAK oems...

Have a fantastic Sunday and RIDE!

Cheers...Greg

 

[warp9.9]

Greg, is that on high beam or low beam ? Did you get the control box and and the light in the bucket?

 

[xlr8tion]

Greg, is that on high beam or low beam ? Did you get the control box and and the light in the bucket?

Warp..I think high. I was in a hurry to get the second one in but I tell you the diff is WAAAAY more noticeable on the road as low has a definite cut towards the road...No people flashing me. High beam..BAM....started scorching the pine cones in the trees....I did not use their cardboard spacer and they neglected to send the cover that slides over but I would not have used it as it knocks the Kelvin color down..These are WHITE WHITE WHITE...no bluish tint and will be GREAT for day riding on LOW and my only concern is the cooling fan recirculates hot air as it is a sealed bucket. But...They have a year warranty and if I blow one out Rocky Mountain or Cyclops will take care of me...


Definitely exceeded my expectations and I have some SERIOUS LED TACLITES that exceed 250 lumens per volt so these LEDS are the real deal.

Futzing with the fitment was the biggest hassle..have to be careful not to drop the sealed reflector.
'
No F bombs dropped...That is amazing.

 

[1olbull]

Warp..I think high. I was in a hurry to get the second one in but I tell you the diff is WAAAAY more noticeable on the road as low has a definite cut towards the road...No people flashing me. High beam..BAM....started scorching the pine cones in the trees....I did not use their cardboard spacer and they neglected to send the cover that slides over but I would not have used it as it knocks the Kelvin color down..These are WHITE WHITE WHITE...no bluish tint and will be GREAT for day riding on LOW and my only concern is the cooling fan recirculates hot air as it is a sealed bucket. But...They have a year warranty and if I blow one out Rocky Mountain or Cyclops will take care of me...
Definitely exceeded my expectations and I have some SERIOUS LED TACLITES that exceed 250 lumens per volt so these LEDS are the real deal.
Futzing with the fitment was the biggest hassle..have to be careful not to drop the sealed reflector.
No F bombs dropped...That is amazing.

FYI -
What I have found best for me is to run high beam and adjust to low beam specs.
I seldom get flashed and when on a very dark road, I do dip to oncoming vehicles.
On the optical axis, low beams by design only produce 5,000 candela which is 24 times less (that's TWENTY_FOUR!) light than do high beams!
This is my basis for using High beam adjusted lower to low beam specs.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

3800 Lumen H4 LED Headlight

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

Greg, Where did you put the Can Bus unit for each light ?

 

[jthree]

Looks great and I love the idea of more light without dropping $700.

Any reason THESE (the H4 option of course) wouldn't work? Gotta like the price and the reviews seem decent.

 

[xlr8tion]

FYI -
What I have found best for me is to run high beam and adjust to low beam specs.
I seldom get flashed and when on a very dark road, I do dip to oncoming vehicles.
On the optical axis, low beams by design only produce 5,000 candela which is 24 times less (that's TWENTY_FOUR!) light than do high beams!
This is my basis for using High beam adjusted lower to low beam specs.

Bull...

During the day its hard to tell the diff...I am concerned on burning the fans out on High Beam as the only cooling in a sealed can is convective going over the headlights and that will diminish greatly once it gets hot out.


They can't breath bro.... and on LOW they are wicked bright..got flashed twice tonight...You are running those champagne and caviar J and W or Daymakers-are you not jeeves?

G

 

[xlr8tion]

Greg, Where did you put the Can Bus unit for each light ?

You do not have a choice but to use some glazing tape or male/female velcro and attach the Can Bus to the back side of the headlight with the heatsink touching the metal cans.

There is not many ways to do it but once you eye it up...No problem.....

Hardest part is getting those farking chrome bands off...The easy way is to make sure which side goes out and press them over the seated headlight....

Also...DO NOT TAKE THE SMALL SCREWS out of he base...The trick to locking the bulb into the reflector is loosening the the retention bale clip screw and remove the clip Insert clip between fan and bulb and insert in reflector back and finagle the bale clip back under the washer the screw holds down while clipping the bulb in.


Put a couple towels down as dropping the Reflector will result in prolific F BOMB generation

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

I am concerned on burning the fans out on High Beam as the only cooling in a sealed can is convective going over the headlights and that will diminish greatly once it gets hot out.


They can't breath bro.... and on LOW they are wicked bright..got flashed twice tonight...

I emailed Cyclops pics of my setup with the fan inside the can and they stated it is fine wrt heat etc.

Re the getting flashed, I made a few posts over on the .com site about a couple of adjustments which focus and lower the Cyclops LED low beam real good, if you're interested, no driver has flashed me