Gearbox troubles!!

[shanefish]

Looking for your input to a gearbox problem thats just developed.
Riding home tonight in traffic and moving off from a intersection could not engage 3rd gear. I mean to say, the shifter toed up into the position of third but there was nothing there but the revving of a disengaged drive train. No graunching. No grinding metals. Just revs.
I'm thinking a selector problem rather than a actual gear failure.
Could any of your learned selves offer me some possible causes?
I'm riding a 2010 Rocket. 26000k's. Serviced regularly. With extra oil changes.

Love the bike in every way. Handling is superb, and faster than anything I've ever ridden before.
But ****, I didn't pay that kind of money to have gearbox failure 26K into a lifetime relationship.
If I wanted that I would have stayed married!!

 

[Mittzy]

I would talk to your Dealer.
They might offer some advice, could even lobby Triumph for a possible warranty..
Oh and welcome Mate. Where you from?

 

[CanberraR3]

Sounds like it could be your detent spring. Ask your dealer. Fair bit written about it on here if do a search. Here's a couple to look at but there's plenty more.

http://www.r3owners.net/threads/jumping-out-of-gear-help.12026/
http://www.r3owners.net/threads/clunky-gear-shifting.16973/page-2#post-218506

 

[idk]

I ain't a betting man,. but I would bet my lunch money that it is the detent spring. The parts will set you back about $10 and labour will be about 4 hours. If you are a reasonable shade tree mechanic then you can do it yourself in about that time. If you do replace the spring, then uses a thin screwdriver to slide the spring over its mounting point. Do NOT use pliers as, I believe, they nick the spring slightly and create a weak point which is where the spring breaks.

You may want to make one modification while you are in there. warp9.9 came up with an idea for an external spring instead of the internal one to reset the clutch actuation. It is well worth doing.

 

[warp9.9]

My question is can you get it in any gear like maybe first ? you might have to hold it down to keep it in the gear but you should be able to. The broken detent gives you a false neutral but you should be able to hold it in and if you let pressure off the gear shifter it pops out. Do not do this to much just verify.

 

[shanefish]

quote="warp9.9, post: 218682, member: 1328"]My question is can you get it in any gear like maybe first ? you might have to hold it down to keep it in the gear but you should be able to. The broken detent gives you a false neutral but you should be able to hold it in and if you let pressure off the gear shifter it pops out. Do not do this to much just verify.[/quote]
Warp 9.9 you're on the money there mate. I can engage 1st and 2nd, then it all goes pear shaped. A little trouble engaging 4th, but I'm guessing thats a normal problem with a busted detent spring. I'm a bit worried when I read that the motor may have to be dropped out of the frame to make the repair. You're obviously a learned man when it comes to these things, can you tell me if thats correct?
Thanks for taking the time to give me the benefit of your wisdom.

 

[CanberraR3]

The engine does not have to come out and don't believe anyone (ie. your dealer) who says it does. My sump had to come off because they couldn't find all the bits - better safe than sorry - but that's as far as they should need to go if at all.

 

[TOMCAT]

Definitely don't have to remove the engine .. numerous Owners on here have had there deten spring replaced without engine coming out. Where are you from mate ?

 

[shanefish]

Definitely don't have to remove the engine .. numerous Owners on here have had there deten spring replaced without engine coming out. Where are you from mate ?

Living in Christchurch But at the moment. But originally from the North Island.

 

[warp9.9]

Shane the engine does not have to come out to just change the detent spring as it is behind the clutch basket. Now if you had to change the detent shaft then yes the engine has to come out to split it open. I went thru this process with another captian who got stranded 700 miles from home at his brothers. The key is not to marr up th enew spring with tools like needle nose pliers. He found the installin it worked well with a couple pieces of 50 lbs test fishing line to pull it down and slide it over the tension shaft. it sounds better then using a flat blade screw driver. The thing to make sure is when you put the clutch bascet back in make sure the oil pump drive pins are engaged in th eback of the clutch basket or it will not slide completly on in place.
Hope this helps