First "self" oil change

[rocketjohn]

When I went and got my oil changing supplies the clerk looked it up and said, "you need 10w50" and proceeded to bring out a case of Castrol just exactly six quarts big! You would think they had them made up special! I might be persuaded to use 15w50 if I lived in Death Valley or something.

 

[ThisGuy]

I might be persuaded to use 15w50 if I lived in Death Valley or something.

I've been convinced by @Neville Lush and others that 50 weight would be preferable. I'm a little leery to go back to it here in Montana, but in Virginia I'd definitely give it a try and see if it smooths out the shifting at all.

 

[Lifelong Biker]

I understand oil is cheap ( compared to an engine ) but you are changing it way too often. New modern engines have much closer tolerences the those of the old days, and use of synthetic oil don't require such frequent oil changes If you are changing with filter and synthetic at about $70 a change, every 500 miles that's $1400 every 10,000 miles

 

[Jag]

once a year or 10000 miles most riders do less than 10k so the once a year is a good rule.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

My bike is a 2006. When I purchased it new Triumph was using Mobil 1 Full Syn 4T 15W50 that was made in Europe. Triumph recommended using the Mobile 1 15W50 as the most preferred oil. When Triumph and Mobil had a falling out, Triumph then switched to Castrol and recommended as the preferred oil the Castrol Full Syn 4T 10W50. I've been using both of these oils since new with annual or 5K mile changes and so far 40K miles later all is still good.

Changing the oil at the first 500 miles is very good. It is done to remove the metal bits that are ground off during break in. Doing it again at 1000 miles is OK too. Just a little more protection for the transmission. You see, the old school mechanics, especially in heavy equipment such as 18 wheeler type trucks, will tell you that anytime you install new or rebuilt engines, trans or rears ends, you should change the lube at 1000 miles. This removes all the metal bits from break in and prolongs the life of the unit. I still work on the old school methods. My stuff runs and runs and runs with very little trouble. I say the old school methods really work and are definitely worth the time and expense.

 

[hoopla]

My bike is a 2006. When I purchased it new Triumph was using Mobil 1 Full Syn 4T 15W50 that was made in Europe. Triumph recommended using the Mobile 1 15W50 as the most preferred oil. When Triumph and Mobil had a falling out, Triumph then switched to Castrol and recommended as the preferred oil the Castrol Full Syn 4T 10W50. I've been using both of these oils since new with annual or 5K mile changes and so far 40K miles later all is still good.

Changing the oil at the first 500 miles is very good. It is done to remove the metal bits that are ground off during break in. Doing it again at 1000 miles is OK too. Just a little more protection for the transmission. You see, the old school mechanics, especially in heavy equipment such as 18 wheeler type trucks, will tell you that anytime you install new or rebuilt engines, trans or rears ends, you should change the lube at 1000 miles. This removes all the metal bits from break in and prolongs the life of the unit. I still work on the old school methods. My stuff runs and runs and runs with very little trouble. I say the old school methods really work and are definitely worth the time and expense.

Yup I agree, I could tell when the Rocket was really starting to loosen up at around 900 miles,(total) so that tells me that the oil probably need to be changed. Doing the change at 1490 and seeing how dirty it was, confirmed that break in was still going on in the engine. I'll change again at 1000 and see what it looks like, should be in much better condition. My Bonnie oil at 1000 miles still looks clean, only a slight change in color, the Rocket should be the same. I run the Bonnie a lot richer than what the Rocket is running too, helps in cooling the air cooled motor.

Hoopla

 

[AussieMick]

Because it has a wet clutch, I assume we shouldn't use an additive like molybdenum etched. Would this be correct?

 

[rocketjohn]

We shouldn't, but if the manufacturer says it won't hurt....I'd hold them to their word if my clutch started slipping. But the defining issue is, does it say MA/MA2 anywhere? If it does....it can contain fairy dust....and it will be good.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

NO ADDATIVES that ad slipperiness to the engine. I think anything with moly would ad slipperiness. It would be nice if motorcycle engines could be made still in the unit style of today, but with the transmission separated from the engine crank. Not like HD does it though. That design is to big and bulky. If they were separated we could use the best oil and additives types for each component. It is definitely a compromise using just engine oil for the engine and trans.