Entire walkthrough of both wheel removal and installation on a 2015 R3R

[1K9]

I jack up the bike, remove the top of both shock absorbers to drop the swingarm. Remove the license plate and proceed as mstraub72 so well described.

I must add that I am referring only to the rear tire service and that I have a tri-pipe 07 Classic. No exhaust parts are removed.

Have contemplated reassembly of the rear drive and rim/tire, then coupling it to the swing arm. Not sure what the risk might be, if any doing it that way.

When the rear tire comes off I always check/lube the splines and change the rear drive oil.

 

[mstraub72]

You know, @barbagris point about paying someone else to do it brings up a good question...how much are you all paying your local shops to do this job? Mine wanted $250+ to swap the front and rear. Hence saving the cash and learning how to do it myself. Plus, it always feels kinda nice knowing you took your time and did every step smooth, torquing everything up to spec etc..., not rushing to maximize your income per hour billed at a shop. But I'm genuinely curious what disparity we'll see. So, Edmonton Alberta area, $250. And if anyone can tell me how to add a PDF of the whole rant here, I'll happily toss it in the thread or wherever is appropriate.

 

[barbagris]

You know, @barbagris point about paying someone else to do it brings up a good question...how much are you all paying your local shops to do this job?

afaicr - about €20 a wheel. And I usually get a good solid discount on the rubber too. The boss is a biker.

 

[mstraub72]

@barbagris , is that the crazy low price you pay if you just roll in on the bike, and they do all the work removing and reinstalling the wheels?? If so, I'm moving to Spain immediately. That $250 quoted by my shop was the roll in - roll out price, with the actual mounting of the tires on the rims included. When I did the labor myself, I was still hit with $50 per wheel to swap the rubber over.

 

[barbagris]

@barbagris , is that the crazy low price you pay if you just roll in on the bike, and they do all the work removing and reinstalling the wheels?? If so, I'm moving to Spain immediately. That $250 quoted by my shop was the roll in - roll out price, with the actual mounting of the tires on the rims included. When I did the labor myself, I was still hit with $50 per wheel to swap the rubber over.

Well it's been a couple of years - but just had two new tyres put onto the missus car - 127Euros for two tyres balanced and with the "old tyre removal" tax. I have done it both wheels off and ride in - same price. But I am a "regular" so I think I get a better deal than many.

 

[Starmanut]

@mstraub72

You just saved me some possible trouble in your write up here.

"
After that, I wasn’t sure how to get the Bevel Box back onto the driveshaft, as it was now laying on the bottom of the driveshaft tube. Seeing zero options to prop it up anyway, I figured I could just sneak up on it with the bevel box, and kinda raise the rear of the Bevel Box just a little as I slid it in, hoping to lift the driveshaft up as it went in. Amazingly, only took like 4 tries before she mated easily. Slid the Box home, reinstalled the nuts hand tight, then slid the rear axle through the Box over to the other swingarm. This apparently ensures proper alignment (although I think the 4 nuts would have too…but hey…the Manual says so, so there you go…).
"

I figured I might find the bevel box reinstall here, so I left it and went on to replace my tire. Dang. That tire is a stubborn one. Might take it in to a shop after another try...But next back to the bevel box.

Here's what I have:

Got to put this:


Into this:


The shaft pulled out a bit from pulling off the bevel box. I pushed it back in maybe 1/2 inch. Am I still good?
There seems to be plenty of grease in there (blue stuff). Do I just add more moly (grey stuff that I have), to the socket on the bevel box and call it good?

Then I'll just do as you did till it slips in. (knock on wood).

Thanks again for your write up, and latest videos!!

 

[mstraub72]

@Starmanut , my pleasure!

Re: the lube, if you look like you have a ton in there already, I wouldn't bother adding much more if any. It's tough to see from here, but just use your judgement. A tiny skim of moly on the end of the male shaft might make mating them a bit easier anyway, but don't go buck nutty with it. No need I don't suspect. Now, the gears on the bevel box that mates to the gear on the wheel...that can stand a little clean up and fresh moly I bet. I did mine, and will do it every time that wheel is off.

Re your question about the shaft pulling out a bit, I suspect that it has a significant amount of travel fore and aft to accommodate the rear suspension travel. I think you're gold. Just do like I did, ease it back in there with a little lift on the rear end, and sorta "scoop" the male splined shaft up into the female receiver on the bevel box. I don't remember doing this, but I bet you could, if you can't seem to get it lined up, you could take a gloved hand and try to rotate the gear that mates with the rear wheel a little bit, which would rotate your female shaft receiver a little bit. Might just need a smidge of rotation to get lined up, but if you haven't moved anything since it was split, it should go back together just fine. Once you have it reconnected and the bolts torqued up (REMEMBER TO FOLLOW THE BOOK'S RECOMMENDATION!...it was very specific about how to torque the 4 mount bolts up in sequence. If you don't have the book, just ask here and I'll scan that page in for you), the fact that the shaft pulled out a little bit will be mitigated. It will be shoved back to the appropriate spot just by the act of reattaching the bevel box methinks.

 

[1K9]

@Starmanut , my pleasure!

Re: the lube, if you look like you have a ton in there already, I wouldn't bother adding much more if any. It's tough to see from here, but just use your judgement. A tiny skim of moly on the end of the male shaft might make mating them a bit easier anyway, but don't go buck nutty with it. No need I don't suspect. Now, the gears on the bevel box that mates to the gear on the wheel...that can stand a little clean up and fresh moly I bet. I did mine, and will do it every time that wheel is off.

Re your question about the shaft pulling out a bit, I suspect that it has a significant amount of travel fore and aft to accommodate the rear suspension travel. I think you're gold. Just do like I did, ease it back in there with a little lift on the rear end, and sorta "scoop" the male splined shaft up into the female receiver on the bevel box. I don't remember doing this, but I bet you could, if you can't seem to get it lined up, you could take a gloved hand and try to rotate the gear that mates with the rear wheel a little bit, which would rotate your female shaft receiver a little bit. Might just need a smidge of rotation to get lined up, but if you haven't moved anything since it was split, it should go back together just fine. Once you have it reconnected and the bolts torqued up (REMEMBER TO FOLLOW THE BOOK'S RECOMMENDATION!...it was very specific about how to torque the 4 mount bolts up in sequence. If you don't have the book, just ask here and I'll scan that page in for you), the fact that the shaft pulled out a little bit will be mitigated. It will be shoved back to the appropriate spot just by the act of reattaching the bevel box methinks.

I had wondered about "the lube" No cleaning old grease out necessary? Just pile on some new gunk and carry on?

 

[mstraub72]

I had wondered about "the lube" No cleaning old grease out necessary? Just pile on some new gunk and carry on?

Fair point, 1K9. I guess it depends on his miles...when I did my first re-lube last year, my bike only had about 10,000 miles on her, so I figure that stuff in there is pretty fresh, and only added a thin layer of Moly 77 to the output shaft and it's female receiver. Starmanut might be wise to get in there and really get it cleaned out as best as he can, then apply fresh goop.

 

[1K9]

Fair point, 1K9. I guess it depends on his miles...when I did my first re-lube last year, my bike only had about 10,000 miles on her, so I figure that stuff in there is pretty fresh, and only added a thin layer of Moly 77 to the output shaft and it's female receiver. Starmanut might be wise to get in there and really get it cleaned out as best as he can, then apply fresh goop.

It's kinda difficult. You can include me in the sloppy Joe with the Moly group. Just wondered what others are doing.