Enlisting Mufasa for Salt Duty

[Claviger]

Work in progress for the control area, still to add is gauges, gps speedo, Power commander display for AFR/RPM.

It will all fit and be tidy/tight. I can tuck and get my whole fat head behined the screen, arms against tank, and still have throttle control. Based on past experience and Justdads size, I predict he will be in a dead-still pocket listening to the monstrous induction roar 12" from his ear, perfect for landspeed.

Done for the day, tomorrow is rear brake rotor/bleed, firesleeve, fully sort electrics (started today and quit), fabricate front brake res bracket, fabricate gauge mounting bracket (yes I know the top clamp is inverted).

Thursday will be validation ride, if that goes without issue, detailing the beast....

 

[Justdad]

Headstock nuts tightened a touch, we all know loose nuts cause wobbling, and we can't have that.

Bars are rock solid, centered, and where they will stay. Pics show how I moved the mount point forward and got 1 1/8 bars to clamp. They physically cannot move upward due to fairing stays.

Front end dropped as far as the fork design permits. About a 1/2".

Throttle cable replaced with a new single cable from a Daytona 675, eliminates the close cable. It's a non-issue as anyone who's disassembled the TB assembly knows, the return springs are no fing joke (only 1 of the !7! needed to close the throttle so...it's safe, with 6 backup springs).

Throttle now turns as smooth as a brand new bike; should help Justdad meter the right amount of go stick while spinning the rear at speed.

PS: No, it's not adjusted in the pic. The 22 year old original D955i cable was tight and gummy feeling, this needed done regardless of single/double.

@Justdad per your request, 1/4 turn throttle cam installed. It's ... Very quick

Thanks it will make the ride much easier.

 

[wjb]

I predict he will be in a dead-still pocket listening to the monstrous induction roar 12" from his ear, perfect for landspeed.

I think he'll be listening to Yanni.
Dude has ice water running through his veins.

 

[Claviger]

Last thing on the bike for today:

It's long bothered me how close to the bike centerline my steering damper was mounted on the fork end. The further from centerline, the more leverage the damper has and ideally it is located perpendicular to the fork legs.

I revised my mounting setup, it moves it slightly further from centerline, but more critically, it sets it exactly perpendicular to the fork legs.

I got lucky and found the damper has 1/2" excess rod length sticking out each end from lock to lock, should clear tech without issue (bringing the much longer with as a backup for a persnickety tech).

Fork ring is a 58mm deal that I "convinced" to fit a 58.3mm fork leg.

 

[Tripps]

Headstock nuts tightened a touch, we all know loose nuts cause wobbling, and we can't have that.

Bars are rock solid, centered, and where they will stay. Pics show how I moved the mount point forward and got 1 1/8 bars to clamp. They physically cannot move upward due to fairing stays.

Front end dropped as far as the fork design permits. About a 1/2".

You'll probably be alright with a steering damper, but I'm surprised at you dropping the triple tree, I wouldn't think at those speeds that you would want any quicker steering, I would think raise it if anything?

 

[Claviger]

You'll probably be alright with a steering damper, but I'm surprised at you dropping the triple tree, I wouldn't think at those speeds that you would want any quicker steering, I would think raise it if anything?

I dropped the ass of the bike a lot, with the triples at normal it was raked backwards, trying for level or slightly forward body attitude, but not as much as before.

Wired in the kill switch. Yellow wire with red stripe from kill switch on bar is the latch trigger wire. When interrupted bike is 100% off. Wired in a way that it's fail safe, so if there's an issue bike dies instead of keeps running.

 

[Claviger]

So...much...angey...

Someone has officially awoken from slumber. Little peek.

All required tech complete, pending firesleeve and rear rotor delivery today. Now to get it back together.

Fuuuuu feels so good. I'm soooo ready to listen to Mufasa scream for 7 miles wide open!!!

My inner child is absolutely screaming to go rip off some quarters now haha.

 

[Kevin frazier]

Thats one nasty piece

 

[Claviger]

Confirmed, Daytona 600 rotor works. At 310mm it's 3mm smaller than stock diameter, but it'll work. This sample is fubar and warped like a piece of bubble gum, just installed to verify fitment. A brand new one will be here in a day to insure no issues with the primary brake.

 

[Claviger]

Plan is all EBC red Vee rotors, like this one, front and back.

Paired (post Boneville) with the Pretech Calipers, she's gonna have some whoa power.