Enlisting Mufasa for Salt Duty

[1olbull]

WOW! You be a busy boy!
Love, love that rear 17" wheel!
BTW - I see no rear brake rotor???

What day, time you leaving for Boise?

 

[Claviger]

Rotor is in the mail gets here in a couple of days.

Looks like the front rotor just 310mm instead of 320mm from a Triumph TT600. Thanks papa Triumph for perpetuation the same tech for decades lol. Makes part bin raiding for cross model compliance easy.

 

[ozrider]

@Claviger nice to see some lock wiring done properly and the cut end turned over to avoid getting stabbed

 

[Claviger]

Thanks, it's my first time using it, I'm being extra pedantic about everything for this event since I want a one and done Boneville experience lol.

 

[Claviger]

Current in progress project is extending the Daytona control wiresl harness. Maybe not surprising to some, the connectors and pin out for a D955i are exactly the same as an RiiiR. Makes sense since triumph lifted a ton of stuff from the D955i to use on the rocket.

This should get the cables nicely tucked away when finished, and soldering everything; too many potential failure points using dry joints.

As for dead mans kill switch, I'm going to wire it in-line for the PDM-60 turn on trigger wire. That way when the Deadman cord is pulled, the entire bike loses all power, everything instant off. Exceeds the requirement (ignition and fuel pump)but it's the easiest way to do it.

 

[Claviger]

And 1/2 done, now for clutch side:

 

[Justdad]

With that, I'm done drilling for the day. There are not further required wire items; however, I still need to wire the air filter items together and then to the bike so nothing can fly off at speed.

I plan to wire the oil filter in place and will probably wire the bar mount clamping bolts after final assembly.

Remaining items:
- Polish scratches out of screen so Justdad can see where he's going
- Sleeve fuel line and clamp fireproof hose in place.
- Fit new rear rotor.
- Fab gauge mounting bracket and get that insanity sorted.
- Some electrical items (minor).
- Clean the dirty ass bike and slather on some lemon pledge on all non-rider grip surfaces...(no, seriously, the silicon oil base of it will help salt removal after runs).
- Mount the 130/70 front tire.
- Bleed brakes.
- Install new throttle cable.
- Adjust clutch/throttle cable.
- Ride and refine tune/verify everything is safe and sorted for stupid fast mode.

So, all in, about a day of random ****e I'm going spread over the next couple of days to not injure my ridiculously fubar back.

No worries on the windscreen I ride with my eyes closed anyways.

 

[Claviger]

Headstock nuts tightened a touch, we all know loose nuts cause wobbling, and we can't have that.

Bars are rock solid, centered, and where they will stay. Pics show how I moved the mount point forward and got 1 1/8 bars to clamp. They physically cannot move upward due to fairing stays.

Front end dropped as far as the fork design permits. About a 1/2".

 

[Claviger]

I have to admit, the low look is...pretty cool. Whole chassis sits about 2" lower than how I had it before.

Limiting factor on rear tire diameter is the back of the battery box. 200/65 will be tight, 200/60 is the closest I readily accept as a good fit (same diameter as 240/55R16). The carbon dry rear fender gives about 5 in of clearance for suspension movement, more than enough.

 

[Claviger]

Throttle cable replaced with a new single cable from a Daytona 675, eliminates the close cable. It's a non-issue as anyone who's disassembled the TB assembly knows, the return springs are no fing joke (only 1 of the !7! needed to close the throttle so...it's safe, with 6 backup springs).

Throttle now turns as smooth as a brand new bike; should help Justdad meter the right amount of go stick while spinning the rear at speed.

PS: No, it's not adjusted in the pic. The 22 year old original D955i cable was tight and gummy feeling, this needed done regardless of single/double.

@Justdad per your request, 1/4 turn throttle cam installed. It's ... Very quick