Enlisting Mufasa for Salt Duty
- Thread starter Claviger
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Claviger
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That is the part number, ordered off Speed Addicts, they have the best price on the net at the moment.
Claviger
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So, I went back and looked at gearing commander again, this time I realized GC website changes the final drive gearing for current/custom on its own. Revised and corrected numbers below (240/55R16 included for reference):
200/65R17
200/60R17
200/55R17
240/55R16
200/65R17
200/60R17
200/55R17
240/55R16
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Claviger
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I was looking again because I was rethinking the RPM required to actually achieve a speed starting with a 2 instead of a 1. Turns out, the 200/60 and 200/65 give Mufasa a very real chance to turn 200+. At 8000, the bike is still making 254 whp/188lbft, or 219/213 mph potentially (not pictured runs, pictured run was during tuning still). Figure in salt induced slip and it remains quite possible. Mufasa peaks at 7900 and holds onto most of the power until 8300 where it kind of plummets, but that should be fine.
This really lifts my spirits, as the gearing commander had me doubting the whole endeavor could even touch 200 until I realized it had changed the gear ratios on me of its own accord. I've been looking at some of the other 200ish bikes that have achieved it and I do not think it's out of reach with good conditions of salt/air combined.
On a BIG plus note, this means @Justdad can actually use the very easy to read stock tacho up to about 7800 RPM (my tach stops at 7800, so he'll have to look at the digital tach, or better yet, just focus on maxing it, RPM be ****ed).
It also betrays a secret about previous 174-176 mph runs on carpenter 240 engines:
This is probably why they were running the 240/50 instead of the 240/55. The 240/55 puts the RPM too low in 5th, 6700 at 175, where the 240/50 puts it at 6900, or much closer to the 240/265 engine build peak power of ~7200-7400 (if I remember right). They may also have been in 4th gear, using the overrun potential of
the engine at about 8300 RPM (I doubt it though as the 240/265 kits make piss poor power up there).
Just by looking at the graphs, you can see how the difference is going to enable top end more via RPM. The 2 N/A Rocket 3 record holding bikes at ~175 were both 240 kits.
240 kit (Carp website source, no filter, oxygenated fuel, not a real dyno):
Mufasa (with air filter and pump gas)
This is a previously unpublished sheet if I remember correctly, the cold run (red) is how Justdad will be running, the blue run is heat soaked.
This really lifts my spirits, as the gearing commander had me doubting the whole endeavor could even touch 200 until I realized it had changed the gear ratios on me of its own accord. I've been looking at some of the other 200ish bikes that have achieved it and I do not think it's out of reach with good conditions of salt/air combined.
On a BIG plus note, this means @Justdad can actually use the very easy to read stock tacho up to about 7800 RPM (my tach stops at 7800, so he'll have to look at the digital tach, or better yet, just focus on maxing it, RPM be ****ed).
It also betrays a secret about previous 174-176 mph runs on carpenter 240 engines:
This is probably why they were running the 240/50 instead of the 240/55. The 240/55 puts the RPM too low in 5th, 6700 at 175, where the 240/50 puts it at 6900, or much closer to the 240/265 engine build peak power of ~7200-7400 (if I remember right). They may also have been in 4th gear, using the overrun potential of
the engine at about 8300 RPM (I doubt it though as the 240/265 kits make piss poor power up there).
Just by looking at the graphs, you can see how the difference is going to enable top end more via RPM. The 2 N/A Rocket 3 record holding bikes at ~175 were both 240 kits.
240 kit (Carp website source, no filter, oxygenated fuel, not a real dyno):
Mufasa (with air filter and pump gas)
This is a previously unpublished sheet if I remember correctly, the cold run (red) is how Justdad will be running, the blue run is heat soaked.
Last edited:
Claviger
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Due to shipping delays, shakedown ride delayed until Monday at earliest, can't/won't ride safely at high speed with an uber warped rear rotor.
In the meantime, I've built a 1/4" thick carbon fiber bracket to put the stock gauges ahead of the bars, over the stock key location. Then, just over the bar mounting and closer to the rider, will sit the GPS speedo, and finally the Power Commander display will sit anchored to the screw hole the gauges mount to stock closest to the eyes.
In a tuck, as you look forward, the RPM/AFR on the digital will be the first thing in LOS with GPS speed just above it.
If I can find it, my shift light will get mounted just below the PC display. Ideally, I'll find it so I can program in color codes to indicate a "zone* of 200+, giving a visual confirmation at a glance without needing to read letters/numbers in bright sunlight.
In the meantime, I've built a 1/4" thick carbon fiber bracket to put the stock gauges ahead of the bars, over the stock key location. Then, just over the bar mounting and closer to the rider, will sit the GPS speedo, and finally the Power Commander display will sit anchored to the screw hole the gauges mount to stock closest to the eyes.
In a tuck, as you look forward, the RPM/AFR on the digital will be the first thing in LOS with GPS speed just above it.
If I can find it, my shift light will get mounted just below the PC display. Ideally, I'll find it so I can program in color codes to indicate a "zone* of 200+, giving a visual confirmation at a glance without needing to read letters/numbers in bright sunlight.
Claviger
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Claviger
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A more fun project was the gauges. While certainly not what I would do on a show bike, where I'd sink them down a good bit lower, Mufasa is a rider and higher gauges means they'll be in my sight line on street.
Justdad should be able to see the blue line without lifting out of pocket as they are in this test fit.
Need to pull off and put the cups on the back of them, but otherwise, solid and stable mounting that has adjustment to center them (which they're not ATM).
PS:
- Tank is askew, not bolted on front point.
- Please ignore the insanity in the background ...
Justdad should be able to see the blue line without lifting out of pocket as they are in this test fit.
Need to pull off and put the cups on the back of them, but otherwise, solid and stable mounting that has adjustment to center them (which they're not ATM).
PS:
- Tank is askew, not bolted on front point.
- Please ignore the insanity in the background ...
Attachments
TURBO200R4
stand up straight and grab the world by the a$$
Well i am comming in very late with this tip
on your tank where it comes up a little then hits the points on the tank and stops.
i ground those points off wtih a die grinder now my tank will stand straight up had to trim a little on the tape to get enough wire for the fuel pump and make a new tank prop.
becareful that it doesn't go all the way over
hth
on your tank where it comes up a little then hits the points on the tank and stops.
i ground those points off wtih a die grinder now my tank will stand straight up had to trim a little on the tape to get enough wire for the fuel pump and make a new tank prop.
becareful that it doesn't go all the way over
hth
Claviger
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That's a good tip, and something I should've done aaaages ago haha. Will keep it in mind for the future.
Post Boneville plan is pro paint job that is the same as what I did, except, done right lol. Doing the grinding before that would be ideal.
Post Boneville plan is pro paint job that is the same as what I did, except, done right lol. Doing the grinding before that would be ideal.
Claviger
Aspiring Student
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- '21 Z H2, '14 R3R, '02 Daytona 955i
Had Mary (Mrs Claviger) take a seat and fully tuck, she is 100% below the top of the screen even with a helmet by a couple of inches.
Also, a thin 5' woman on an R3 is hilarious, absolutely dwarfs her. Just putting hands on bars is nearly a full tuck already for her.
She looked at me tucked with helmet, about 2" of helmet sticks out above the screen.
Given Justdad is about right between us (she's 5', I'm 6'3") I expect it will be a "just right" fit.
Also, a thin 5' woman on an R3 is hilarious, absolutely dwarfs her. Just putting hands on bars is nearly a full tuck already for her.
She looked at me tucked with helmet, about 2" of helmet sticks out above the screen.
Given Justdad is about right between us (she's 5', I'm 6'3") I expect it will be a "just right" fit.
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