engine goes at 4th gear

[Zen2osho]

Thanks again friends! Iam buying the below cable

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Triumph...8-3&keywords=triumph+usb+cable#productDetails

It will take 2 weeks to reach me!

 

[TriumPhil]

Hans is a bit incorrect about the forced adaptation of the ECU, aka "the 12 minute tune". From a cold start, start the bike without touching your throttle whatsoever and allow it to idle for at least 12 minutes (I always give in an extra minute or three), by which time the radiator fan should turn on. This will force the ECU to adapt the most essential factory default settings and it just might smooth out what sounds to be a slightly miscalibrated TPS. The additional 12 minute idling session that was mentioned is superfluous to my knowledge.

Regardless, given where you are living, I would go the Tuneboy route or, at the very least get a Tune ECU cable and then the members here or over on R3owners.com can give you loads of help, support and guidance.

 

[Ogremeister]

I still don't understand pulling clutch & apparently freewheeling through a turn? Maybe @ very slow parking lot speeds but then you wouldn't be in 4th or 5th....

 

[warp9.9]

First let me say do not listen to Phil he cannot even figure out how to tighten the battery cable bolts when he changes a battery. He has the mechanical aptitude of a rock. Nice guy though and means wel but you will be better off listening to a whore

Now besides the reset adaptives or 12 minute tune which will result in the same thing you should look at performing a ISCV rest at the same times this will make sure the idle stepper motor, TPS (both secondary and primary) are in synch with the ecu's map This is important as they all make sure the throttle bodies are set to the right map signal like Primary TPS%, rpms, and secondary TPS% settings with the ecu's msp/ its all about balance especially when you are jumping from the F=fuel table to the L=lamba or map sensor tables and the preset idle rpms in the map. People who rum PCV units do not remember that with out this signal interceptors the engine has to run off what the original map program is. This may sound more confusing then it is but if you understood CNC and parameters it would be much easier to understand then it sounds/ Either way using the software and following directions will result in proper performance of the basics.

 

[TriumPhil]

When Scott (the most aptly named, warped 9.9) says that you'd be better off listening to a whore, he is, of course referring to himself!

Frankly, given where he derives a lot of what he represents to be his own knowledge and experience, I regard him to be more of a pimp, but also a nice guy that means well.

 

[Zen2osho]

Have programmed Alternate fuel ECMs and did calibration for a couple of truck engines for Euro III emissions. So with fundamental calibration knowledge , your support and manual i will be able to fix the same.

Thanks again friends.

@Ogremeister , was 120ish kmph wen entering the curve, downshifted from 5 to 4, or 4 to 3 to get speeds to 80 or 70 kmph. this was the time the engine stalled. I will ride for sure this weeekend and inform again if the engine stalls and under what circumstances.

 

[HansO]

If you read my post again Phil please tell me where I am wrong, this picture is from the service manual

The 12 minute starts when the engine is warmed up hence why you wait till the fan comes on.
The only bit that was not in the manual was the bit I said about watching for the TPS light coming on in TuneECU which is an observation I made whilst using TuneECU

 

[Ogremeister]

Zen2osho, "was 120ish kmph wen entering the curve, downshifted from 5 to 4, or 4 to 3 to get speeds to 80 or 70 kmph. this was the time the engine stalled. I will ride for sure this weeekend and inform again if the engine stalls and under what circumstances".

OK...I am picturing traveling @ 120kph RPMs are maybe 3,500-ish.

A quick downshift, just before you enter a bend brings the RPMs up over 4,000.

So how does the RPMs get low enough to stall?

Unless you are the slowest downshifter in the world.

When you downshifted and let clutch back out, did bike instantly refire?
Or did it bog down?

Or did you pull clutch, let RPMs drop way down & stall, coast with clutch in and hit starter button? (Or maybe pop clutch out?)

Sorry, just trying to get an understanding if it's a simple low idle vs. Power cutting out for some other reason.

 

[Zen2osho]

@Ogremeister , The idle is ok, its around 800. The engine never stalled on first, miles second gears , in traffic !!

I don't think my riding is drastically wrong!! With the same riding style i rode 500 miles without any issue under same riding circumstances, after 400 miles on tacho ( was even leading a cruiser bikes group to the beach) i even hit 180 kmph for a few secs just to feel the power of the bike!!

Both the cases the engine switching off( two times) was more or less near the same place ( Steep curved bridge). I dont think its due to wrong gear , abrupt downshift etc. I even noticed that the engine has stalled only when i throttled and no response and saw the oil pressure sign in the dashboard, the speed would have been 60- 50 ish something. Pulled the clutch and it fired on the first time, during the second time have to pull the clutch and downshift then it fired.

Waiting to ride this Saturday and sunday and check in what conditions it occurs and report.

I never went to any riding school, was riding Enfiled 350 cc bullet 10 years before, brought a Honda shadow in 2010 ( for converting the engine to work with Butane fuel ), clocked 5000 miles upgraded to VT 1300 CSA Sabre clocked 6000 miles, then M109 R ( 1000 miles) , occasionally yamaha roadstar 1700( 1200 miles)!!

 

[Ogremeister]

If I am understanding correctly then, the engine bogged off while clutch out (engaged) while you were moving at a decent speed...

This is sounding like maybe a sidestand safety switch issue or something similar.

The bike thinks sidestand was lowered???