engine goes at 4th gear

If I am understanding correctly then, the engine bogged off while clutch out (engaged) while you were moving at a decent speed...

This is sounding like maybe a sidestand safety switch issue or something similar.

The bike thinks sidestand was lowered???
If it was same area with steep banking it might be the tip over sensor as well...
 
If it was same area with steep banking it might be the tip over sensor as well...
When I was at a RAA gathering, I had my Rocket die on me while I was turning. This happened 3 times in 10 minutes when this had never happened before. Did not matter what gear or speed. I took it to Ashville and they looked the bike over and found a loose wire that made the bike die only on the turns. The mechanic was great and crimped the wire together and it has never happened since. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
That's a good 2 cents...a loose connection that is strained when turning bars or a faulty kickstand sensor or maybe the tip over safety....these things would produce your symptoms....not the tune.

No loss though, you will be happy to have the cable for playing with tunes later, after you find the cause of the cutting out.
 
as Ogremiester just said maybe a bad connector, seen some strange things with the rocket connectors which looked fine but not making 100% all the time contact easy fix apply some dielectric grease to connectors, most will already have some but they seem to miss some at factory I have been ALL over my bike and found a few after my tacho mysteriously stopped working pulled the tacho off checked the connectors all looked fine ,no corrosion or moisture but not connecting applied Dielectric grease and all is fine, so my suggestion here would be to buy a couple of tubes and start at the triangle black plastic infill covers at back of engine (where there will be the kickstand connector and pull all the plugs apply a good dose of D/grease and work you way up and under tank check every connector on bike and even if it has grease on it put some more it wont hurt. also check the wire routing is not to tight ... just in case someone at factory was having a bad day and did it wrong aput wire around something they should not have, keep us posted what you find ... I am intrigured
 
I will check the tilt sensor and side stand switch couplers and revert back.

I need the cable anyway to clear DTCs in the ECM.!!
 
If you read my post again Phil please tell me where I am wrong, this picture is from the service manual
image.jpg

The 12 minute starts when the engine is warmed up hence why you wait till the fan comes on.
The only bit that was not in the manual was the bit I said about watching for the TPS light coming on in TuneECU which is an observation I made whilst using TuneECU


I gave my shop manual away, but I do not doubt what you posted, Hans. I suspect, as with a few other matters, Triumph got it wrong and printed the redundant information making their recommended procedure the "24 minute tune". I have done forced re-adaptations of the ECU multiple times in just 12 minutes, including just recently due to a loose ground terminal on my battery. After consulting with my Guru, I will get back to you about this.
 
Well, here's what I've learned, whether it is totally accurate or not, who knows:

The force adaptation cannot begin to occur until the water temp. sensor in the radiator activates the fan. Apparently once that occurs the ECU begins its routine to reset itself to factory default settings. Therefore, Hans is right and I am confused...

Just recently I had a loose battery ground terminal wire that caused my bike to abruptly shut down at highway speed. It would not take a jump start and after checking all the fuses, the starter wire connection, etc., it was determined that my battery had lost a significant amount of juice due to the faulty ground connection. I had it recharged and started the bike (barely). When I fed it any throttle, it cut out once again and that is when I ran the 12 minute tune, actually for about 14-15 minutes. That seemed to clear the ECU which previously had rec'd a message of the faulty connection and would not allow the bike to run until the fault code was reset. Since I ran the 12 minute tune, the bike has started and run fine since.

I've been told from day one that the twelve minute tune required twelve minutes of run time from ignition without touching the throttle and even though I've always let it run for just a few extra minutes beyond that twelve minutes, the forced adapt always seemed to be accomplished. From now on I will follow the procedure as posted by hanso and taken directly from the service manual. Apparently, this should be called "the 12 minute plus tune" and if most R3s are like mine, the entire procedure will require at least 10 minutes to get the radiator fan turning, then continue to let the engine run another 12 minutes without touching the throttle during the entirety.:whitstling::mad:o_O:thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
Umm... The manual excerpt didn't indicate any need to "restart" the engine; just let it run for a 12 minute period after the fan kicks on.
 
the ironic thing is that as you ride the ECU will make more adaptations and if you "Reset Adaptation" under the "ECU" tab in TuneECU you could then ride it and their ECU would set it self new adaptations it may run a little rough for awhile but in the long run same result ,you would need to be riding at least 1/2 hour continuously
 
Back
Top