Differences IGNITION SWITCH & LOCK SET - 343680 Vs 3436801

[goncallf]

I would like to know if there are differences between these two set. Both mention that works on Classic and Roadster.

 

[idk]

I think the wiring changed at some point.

However, if you have a faulty ignition switch then it can be repaired. You will need to remove two tamper-proof scews, then replace them with regular metric bolts. Not a particularly hard job.

 

[goncallf]

I think the wiring changed at some point.

However, if you have a faulty ignition switch then it can be repaired. You will need to remove two tamper-proof scews, then replace them with regular metric bolts. Not a particularly hard job.

Thanks for your reply.

I have a problem on my ignition that need to be replaced, but i don't want to have 2 keys, so i'm thinking to buy a brand new kit. I have found one at great price but doesn´t mention which one is.

 

[DEcosse]

Those are not the part numbers for the key-set - those are the applicable ranges for the two different types

The first set is for classic models up to VIN 343680 - that uses a different type of connector
The second type is for models from 343681 and includes the last of the classics and all roadsters

You need the second one

Keys?
Who needs Keys
(hint - see signature)

If you do end up buying replacement ignition, you can easily adapt to your original key:
the key-switch is in two main parts - the electrical switch and the key-lock;
they are joined together by two tamper-proof screws (not to be confused with - although similar to - the tamper-proof screws securing the switch to the triple clamp)
You can separate the two parts and mix & match using your old key-lock on the new switch - negating the requirement for separate keys for ignition vs tank.

 

[goncallf]

Those are not the part numbers for the key-set - those are the applicable ranges for the two different types

The first set is for classic models up to VIN 343680 - that uses a different type of connector
The second type is for models from 343681 and includes the last of the classics and all roadsters

You need the second one

Keys?
Who needs Keys
(hint - see signature)

If you do end up buying replacement ignition, you can easily adapt to your original key:
the key-switch is in two main parts - the electrical switch and the key-lock;
they are joined together by two tamper-proof screws (not to be confused with - although similar to - the tamper-proof screws securing the switch to the triple clamp)
You can separate the two parts and mix & match using your old key-lock on the new switch - negating the requirement for separate keys for ignition vs tank.

Thanks DEcosse, for your great explanation.
About keyless. If i can lock the steering without the key.......

 

[DEcosse]

No, you need the key to lock the steering
Many leave the OEM switch in place for that purpose - electrically it is disconnected (and therefor does not need to be functional in that regard), but mechanically still provides the locking function
Only time I lock my bike is when on overnight trips - then I use a disc lock for additional security.

 

[idk]

Keyless is a great way to go. @DEcosse makes the best system, my signature has a cheap system which also works, but is not as good.