admiralrocket

.040 Over
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Messages
65
Location
Colorado
This weekend I went to the garage and started up my 2005 R3 and rode about 10 miles to the gas station. Added fuel, closed the cap, and turned the key and no power. Checked the kill switch...still no power at all. turned the key a couple of times and finally got power. Rode for about an hour and stopped for a refreshment and went back out to head home....turned the key...no power. Tried everything and no power. Checked the battery and it was charged so I went and got my truck and brought her home. I understand the ignition has had issues in the R3 just looking for someone to confirm this before I figure out how to address the issue. If it is the ignition any recommendations? Guard Dog wireless? Any help appreciated.
 
I've read about ignition issues, but fortunately have never experienced one. Maybe not you, but the clutch switch and side-stand switch have also been culprits for folks...
-MIG
 
Ok the issue with the R3 ignition switches is all the power is routed through them including the lights. This causes arcing and eventually melts or oxidizes the contacts till they don't conduct/complete the circuit. The best plan is to fit an Eastern Beaver lighting system before this occurs and not have the issue. It's puts the lights on their own relay circuit and takes the load out of the ignition switch. Never too late to do this. Now it may be too late for your switch but I would try some contact cleaner and maybe the smallest amount of a dialectric grease maybe. Replacing the ignition is expensive and a hassle.
 
asuming it is the early rocket and not 2020 up
usually the white/blue wire from ign melts off the switch or switch is fried.
best bet is start checking at the fuses. for checking purposes you can put power back in the system to see if it will work that way.
the dawg system is rated at 20 amps $40 there is a better remote that is 150 amps $150. that looks the same.if it were me i would go remote system.
that would give me time to replace ign switch.
 
asuming it is the early rocket and not 2020 up
usually the white/blue wire from ign melts off the switch or switch is fried.
best bet is start checking at the fuses. for checking purposes you can put power back in the system to see if it will work that way.
the dawg system is rated at 20 amps $40 there is a better remote that is 150 amps $150. that looks the same.if it were me i would go remote system.
that would give me time to replace ign switch.
Yep I have had dawg for over 4 years now with no issues...nice set up...if it dose fail I can easily unplug & go back to ignition switch as it was still working OK before I changed to remote.
 
It doesn't sound like the clutch switch- usually that results in being able to start it without pulling in the clutch. Also, the odd side effect is that your gas gauge will stop working. It does sound like the ignition switch. I'd wiggle the wires and see if that makes it come and go. If you determine it's the switch this may be of help...
 
The main issue with the pre 2010 Rockets... (before the Roadster) was that all the headlight power went through the ignition switch either melting one of the wires or cooking the switch (as Turbo stated). If the wire melted, it could be re-soldered to the switch. Sleeves mentioned the Eastern Beaver bypass circuit which works well. Another fix would be to replace the 2 halogen bulbs which pull a total of 120 watts (app 10 amps) with a pair of LED bulbs drawing 48 watts (4 amps) significantly reducing the load on the switch. Either way you probably have to remove the switch to replace or repair. Choose your poison... but there is an antidote. :)
 
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