CrzystghndKC
Triumph guy happy he didn't work for Harley.
Its next to the thermostat. #1 Here is the thermostat upper left side of engine.
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railcutter
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wjb
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There is an old thread from August 17 2017 by member "Wrecka" titled "Coolant bleed screw" that has a pic of the bleed screw which is just above the thermostat, located where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine.
railcutter
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Al Burdon
Supercharged
Just replaced clutch (100,000K) with Barnett HD unit. Been pulling a sidecar and a 250 Kg camper trailer. Had to remove radiator and damaged the bypass connection ( I replaced with a Chinese copy. Came with a grill but had to remove it as seemed to restrict air flow to much.
Anyway I am having cooling issues. Burped the air out using a funnel in the radiator top instead of cap. When I run at idle for 10 -15 minutes it maintains 100 to 110 c.
Out on the road it gradually gets warmer in the 120s. rising to just alarm level when returning home and shutting down. Now It fluctuates all over the place as much as 10 c in seconds I am assuming still air trapped. Any suggestions.
What is the process to fill the cooling system. I filled at the cap until coolant came out of bleed screw the topped expansion tank to low marks. Ran and checked level topped up as necessary
Anyway I am having cooling issues. Burped the air out using a funnel in the radiator top instead of cap. When I run at idle for 10 -15 minutes it maintains 100 to 110 c.
Out on the road it gradually gets warmer in the 120s. rising to just alarm level when returning home and shutting down. Now It fluctuates all over the place as much as 10 c in seconds I am assuming still air trapped. Any suggestions.
What is the process to fill the cooling system. I filled at the cap until coolant came out of bleed screw the topped expansion tank to low marks. Ran and checked level topped up as necessary
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Sounds like you might have a pocket of air that's landing on the coolant temp sensor and causing a super high reading.
The bolt above the thermostat is great for getting air out of the head, but it is not the highest point in the system.
It's actually not even the highest point in the cylinder head, when bike is on side stand.
The rad cap is higher than it, but when bike is on its side stand, the highest point is the top right (as you sit on the bike) corner of the rad.
The optimum way to drain the coolant (imo - this bit isn't in the manual) is to tilt the bike to the right (as you sit on it) and prop it up using a short length of say 2x4, under something secure & solid on the lower RHS of the engine.
Then the rad cap is the highest point in the system, and the bleed bolt is on the high side of the cyl head.
Now ready to fill the system, via the cap.
The bleed bolt above thermostat can be in a couple of threads only as you fill, and once coolant starts coming out there strongly, thread it in fully& nip it up.
For good measure, a couple times as you fill, rocking the bike from right to left and back again to the prop is good for shaking air pockets loose and over to the rad cap.
Once the system is completely full up to rad cap and no more air pockets appearing from rocking - fit rad cap, and then fill expansion bottle to the high mark.
The bolt above the thermostat is great for getting air out of the head, but it is not the highest point in the system.
It's actually not even the highest point in the cylinder head, when bike is on side stand.
The rad cap is higher than it, but when bike is on its side stand, the highest point is the top right (as you sit on the bike) corner of the rad.
The optimum way to drain the coolant (imo - this bit isn't in the manual) is to tilt the bike to the right (as you sit on it) and prop it up using a short length of say 2x4, under something secure & solid on the lower RHS of the engine.
Then the rad cap is the highest point in the system, and the bleed bolt is on the high side of the cyl head.
Now ready to fill the system, via the cap.
The bleed bolt above thermostat can be in a couple of threads only as you fill, and once coolant starts coming out there strongly, thread it in fully& nip it up.
For good measure, a couple times as you fill, rocking the bike from right to left and back again to the prop is good for shaking air pockets loose and over to the rad cap.
Once the system is completely full up to rad cap and no more air pockets appearing from rocking - fit rad cap, and then fill expansion bottle to the high mark.
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Kevin frazier
Widowmaker!
That is how i started bleeding air from system, as R-111-R said, tilt hard right, fill fill fill, rad cap on, return to stand and it will piss out when you shut off, its full, no air.
Al Burdon
Supercharged
Thanks for the advice. Its on a sidecar (fitted to the left hand side) so I will need to use a jack to tilt it right and then to the left to remove entrapped air.
Kevin frazier
Widowmaker!
You will be better to use bleed bolt, 10mm, loosen bolt, start bike, remove rad top, it will heat up just let it run, when fan comes on you will notice drop in radiator, full overflow, it will come out bleed bolt when full, just keep adding in radiator, its messy but it works, once its coming out bleed bolt tighten it up and put cap on. You may have to add after a ride and it cools off a little. You will notice overflow leak when bike is cut off and cooled and you know its max full.
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