Considering an R3? Whats accel like?

I have slipped out of first on several occasions, all a result of rider error. You have to be deliberate with "stepping" into first gear. I have a Classic model the the heel-toe shifter so that may cause it or add to it.

Cane don't fret about noises and such. This is a big engine and unlike anything produced before so it is going to sound different, just look at the shaft drive and rear hub. Many of the components are heavier duty and built to withstand more than twice the hp and torque any HD owner could dream to put to the back tire. Just like the drive train on a dump truck sounds different then the drive train on a Yugo.

Piggr:

I have to add to that. I too have the heel and toe shifter which took some getting used to and isn't made for fast shifts for sure (not that you need to shift the R3 fast).

When engaging first, prior to getting underway, I snick it down, ease out the clutch a little to feel it engage and then start off. It takes a decided downward push on the shift lever each time, unlike my T100 which is very light and easily engaged.

It's never popped out of gear though neutral is harder to find at a light or when parking than the T100. I'm not a clutch holder at a stoplight, preferring neutral which is a carryover from my Meriden days when excessive clutch disengagement could cause the disengagement rod to weld itself to the clutch basket.

On the noise, I don't think my R3 is louder mechanically that my T100. The T100 makes more engine noise than the R3 comparing them side-by-side. Both engines whir, rattle and generally sound mechanical owing in part to the OHC valvetrain and it's added gearing.

Rocket III

Yes I have tried the heel toe shifter it is something you need to get used to. Why don't you see to many people customizing there Rocket? Even putting the the gas gauge and the clock up on the handle bars, and braided lines and custome paint jobs, and relocating the licence plate so you can see more of the tire? When I do get mine I would like to do all that and get a custom radiator so its more longer and not so wide and get some one to fabucate the tank so I can have chrome on the other side of the tank as well. But I just don't see any one doing all this to it and was woundering why?

Fiddle factor

I don't believe I'd change the radiator, especially to one that's narrower and longer. The VTX has a long, narrow radiator and the bottom of the radiator is prone to getting hit by road debris and developing leaks. The R3 cooler is up and out of harms way and actually a good design for a non-ducted unit. This winter, by request, I'm going to run some stainless through the forming rolls and fabricate a fender extension for the VTX just for that occurence.

The rest of the "customizing" is personal preference, that's all.

Rocket III

That is a good piont , But didn't mean long like the VTX I was more thinking of haveing some one make me a radiator so its narrow same hight but put a custom cover over it so when you look at the front view you don't get that big sqaure radiator . Have you herd of any one that had the Tail gunnerexhaust? Does it sound better then the Jarindine exhaust ?And does it give you more HP and Torque? I have my eyes on a 2006 Rocket Black with the black engine

Clueless in Seattle (Petersburg)

I'm clueless on that exhaust system. In so much as the radiator, however, the square inches or square millimeters of surface area have to be adequate for dispersal of unwanted heat. Considering the size of the R3 radiator, I would ascertain that Triumph engineers allowed little excess surface area for the heat transfer. The frequent cycling of my cooling fan attests to that.

I'd be willing to bet that a custom radiator would cost plenty maybe prohibitively. Besides that, you'd have to design in hose connections and routing. Way too much custom engineering for the end result. Better to blow a wad on a full custom exhaust and then market it to the multitudes. Some time ago, I wrote a post about tube benders. To make a first rate set of headers as well as the exhaust system without decreasing radii bends which result in gas flow turbulence, you need a mandrel bender and an entry level mandrel bender will set you back around 25K. The Midas muffler shop's bender isn't a header bender. Neither is any bender sold to the general public. They are all decreasing radii benders. You need a mandrel bender or as a second choice a radial draw bender (that's what I have). The radial draw causes a minor amount of radii constriction, whereas the mandrel doesn't cause any. I have 5K in my radial draw and each diameter of tube requires a new die set.

The radial draw is what dragster frame builders use as well as shops that build custom bike frames and roll bars. You can get in the mid 20's on a radial draw with hydro-mechanical actuation and mid 30's with CNC control. The mandrel starts around 25 and goes over 150 thousand, depending on the complexity of the controls.

Today, custom work requires a big buck outlay with only a slim chance for a profitable return, that is, unless you are Corbin......

Custom Radiators start at about $500 in the car world and go up very quickly. Someone did a billet radiator over at T Rat that was narrower than stock and there really wasn't much intrest in it. You can minimize the look of the stock radiator by removing the chrome shrouds. I really kind of like the way the stock one looks... its outragous, just like the bike itself.... it sets it apart from the V Twin cookie cutter world.

Rocket III

Wow that was really cool information. There is a guy here in Seattle and he said he can make a nice radiator that is more narrow and a little longer by 2 inches and about two inches thicker and about 4 inches off the width. And he will make a reall cool sporty cover with with two LD lights on the bottom for about $1500.00 . That exhaust I was talking about. tailgunnerexhaust.com I would like to but one one both sides.

Toystoretom said:

Custom Radiators start at about $500 in the car world and go up very quickly. Someone did a billet radiator over at T Rat that was narrower than stock and there really wasn't much intrest in it. You can minimize the look of the stock radiator by removing the chrome shrouds. I really kind of like the way the stock one looks... its outragous, just like the bike itself.... it sets it apart from the V Twin cookie cutter world.

Click to expand...

Tom:

You per chance referring to Griffith or Griffin radiators?? My boss has a '63 Galaxie with a re-worked 390 with an RV cam and flat tops and he had to go to one of those radiators to keep it cool. Myself, I'm not into old cars......they are like old women, high maintenance and no trade in value.

That's one of them... I do believe that somewhere in our own "links" section we have a link to them and another radiator outfit. I just had the radiator rebuilt on my old Buick and it cost $350 to replace the core, and they were able to reuse the tanks. I could have adapted an aluminum Tri Five radiator from Griffen, but it wouldn't have worked any better and it wouldn't have looked stock. If it was a Custom or Traditional Rod I probably would have gone that way... just for the OOOOOH and AAAAAH factor, they are neat looking and the ones I've seen are high quality.

The radiator in my Buick couldn't be boiled and rodded like they used to do, it was getting so old that it was just too fragile for that, plus I don't want to have any problems with it, so I just had it re-cored. It seems that you just can't throw enough money at old cars, boats, motorcycles and women, but then again... you can't take it with you.