Clutch cable problem

warp9.9 said:

Yes I have no internal you would have to take it out which means pulling the cover. Not that it matters I can do a clutch in two hours with no partaking of beverages And Yes if you feel any tension on the internal spring your good to go mind you its not much tension it is just there to help keep the lifter shaft and lifter piece from riding on each other all the time. Provided you have the right free play and do not try to re invent that wheel.

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warp9.9 said:

Also down where your working you will see the lower cable mounting bracket. Its bolted by two bolts going into the clutch cover. You might have yo pull the lwft side radiator shroud and left rear screen
But if you remove them two bolt and free the mount bracket up things might get easier. Your not upsetting the clutch cover or gasket. After you get everything mounted just stick the two bolts back in and torque I thinks its like 10nm something light but follow the specs.

When you get a chance post a picture of your risers. I've installed the rivco on both rockets and am curious which route you went.

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DodahMan said:

Thanks, there indeed IS spring tension when I turn the shaft counter clockwise. It is just that there is not much tension. What you said here about the arm being pretensioned gives me confidence I might still be ok.

So, when rotating the arm left to the stop where ALL spring tension is loaded on the cable, setting the cable and tightening ONLY THEN will the clutch actuator plates lift when the clutch lever is pulled. Is this thinking correct?

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barbagris said:

If you keep pushing - You'll come to a point where it feels solid. This is when the lifter arm has engaged with the "puller" and you are against the CLUTCH SPRINGS - which you will not move by hand without the additional bar lever mechanical advantage. THERE MUST BE SOME FREEPLAY - as per manual - or you WILL burn the lifter shaft.

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1olbull said:

Perhaps search the thread entitled, "Rocket Clutch Cable Install".
(apologies for I be unsure how to make this a link)
The arm does NOT need to be loosened or removed if you follow a correct sequence.

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Bedifferent said:

I don't know where I am in the resolution of thus issue, but I was pretty careful not to allow the clutch actuator arm to drop too far down when putting on my risers and replacing the clutch cable. To facilitate putting the cable on the arm I did loosen it and pry it about a third of the way off the shaft to give me a little more clearance to get the ferrule in the opening. I gently tapped the arm back on the shaft after the ferrule was in and finished doing the rest of the install. Sorry to hear about your issue and frustration over the situation. And a firm YES on those mark's must line up.

As for clutch cable length I found 2 1/2 inches longer to be the best choice in spite of some finding 1 1/2 inches to be enough. I posted pictures in the thread below and I will add.... by not skipping on the length, my clutch cable adjusts out much nicer now and also pulls much nicer now as well. The additional cable length and the Barnett cable made a big difference.

Give a look at my pictures in the post and you decide on the cable length from the pictures.

Rocket Clutch Cable Install

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DodahMan said:

Thanks.. I was understanding that I could get away with a 2 inch rise without problems. My cable is pretty stretched and I may just relocate it.

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