Clock not working out of the box

[Joesmoe]

I purchased the clock fairly recently -- just as I unpacked it, it had obviously been stored for a looooooong time before someone pulled it off the shelf and mailed it to me.

I really like the idea of putting different innards in it, especially after reading @Rocket Scientist account of gear dust inside a failed one.

 

[Ishrub]

I purchased the clock fairly recently -- just as I unpacked it, it had obviously been stored for a looooooong time before someone pulled it off the shelf and mailed it to me.

I really like the idea of putting different innards in it, especially after reading @Rocket Scientist account of gear dust inside a failed one.

Get Fred's and experiment

 

[Ishrub]

Seeing you are going all Frakenstein, you could try 'overclocking' it with a higher voltage say 14v -16v to start with direct of a running alternator if you do not have a regulated variable power supply. @DEcosse is no doubt disgusted with such abuse. and may have another idea.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

I purchased the clock fairly recently -- just as I unpacked it, it had obviously been stored for a looooooong time before someone pulled it off the shelf and mailed it to me.

I really like the idea of putting different innards in it, especially after reading @Rocket Scientist account of gear dust inside a failed one.

Last I knew those cost about $180. If you paid that much for it I would take it back. The odds of finding a movement that will fit in that little case, AND have the correct shaft sizes to fit the hands is pretty close to zero. If you can get your money back, I would.

 

[Joesmoe]

Hermy's just told me the clock is NLA.

The "kit" was $190. Kit has the bar mount and three cable ties - and the instructions -- not sure what drives the $90 difference.

The replacement clock was $100.

I've asked for a refund -- will see what they say.

Thanks

 

[DEcosse]

Are you 100% sure the wiring is correct* Paul?
From your earlier thread I was surprised at the final conclusion you came to relative to the pin numbers shown on the schematic.
(that's not to say the schematic is never wrong )

* For readers not familiar, this is going on a Touring that does not have the std connector on the harness for the clock)

 

[Joesmoe]

Hard to prove a negative. The clock doesn't work, and the wiring is correct.

Wire as it is, the back illumination comes on when the key(less) is turned on.

The constant power allows for some internal buzzing from the clock when attempting to set the clock, but the hands don't move.

Hard for me to understand how I could have gotten the wiring wrong and still have that behavior.

 

[Joesmoe]

Well bless those folks at Hermy's -- they said they would refund my purchase.

 

[stollydriver]

On a brighter note - if you kept it - two times aday it would be correct

 

[TURBO200R4]

this may be useless info but
on my 67 el camino the clock used like a point system with spring and when the points made contact it would activate and the spring would work the clock for a while then energizer the spring again.
anyway once and a while i would have to give it a little bump to get it started.
short version give it a bump