Carpenter 210+ VS 240+ on the street

norseman

Supercharged
Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
207
Location
Rochester, NY
Ride
2013 (early year) Roadster
I know there are dozens of Carpenter themed threads I could have put this on, but I haven't been able to find this exact discussion, and I'd really like some input before I drop my bike off this Sat.

Can any of you more experienced gents provide a bit of comparison between the 210+ and 240+ kits on the road? I'm not planning to spend my life on the drag strip, but I also don't want to "half ass" and end up regretting it. Do you feel a big difference in power throughout the rev range between stage 1 and stage 2?

If 210+ feels like limitless power on the street, and 240+ just raises the ceiling that I'm already failing to touch, I'm not sure it's worth the extra bills (for me, at least).

I want the ceiling to be out of my reach, I just don't want to spend another $1800 on HP I'll never actually feel in a street environment. (PS: This could be renamed the "Talk Norseman into getting the 240+ kit thread)
 
Last edited:
based on my interpretation of your dilemma, my bet would be you want the 210... the general way it always seems to works for a given motor (non-huffed) is: more power = more rpm = power hits higher = less fun unless you are winding it up... unless you are a pretty aggressive rider the way your bike sits right now is pretty nice...

how much time do you spend over 5k rpm and 3/4 throttle now?

not taking anything away from carpenter's stuff, but i think most people who buy a torque heavy bike in the first place would be happier with a supercharger kit - other than the complexity and looks...
 

I like to sprint when I have an open road, and I don't spend all my time trying to break the rear end loose, so I don't mind losing a bit of low rpm torque.

As for a supercharger, I understand the appeal and actually don't hate the look, but I don't much care for the added complexity and weight. Carpenter's got exactly what I want as far as performance improvements, I'm just trying to decide if it's worth the extra cash to get Stage 2.
 
hp is always way more expensive for the next one than the last one... get the 210 and then you can upgrade to the 240 later... the jump from your current bike to 210 is bigger and more noticeable than the move from 210 to 240 would/will be, and you have to ride it that much harder to use those last hp...

the real problem is always second guessing yourself - just ride your existing bike really hard all the time for a few more months then go for the 240 with the extra $$$ you've accumulated... your problem will be if you go 240 and aren't silly happy you'll be depressed that you spent the $$$ and if you go 210 and aren't silly happy you'll lament not spending the extra $$$... life sucks when you think too much - ya just gotta do the pros and cons of each and then pull the trigger and go ride...
 
That's some very solid advice. I think I'll probably stick to the plan and get the 210, it's just so tempting with that 240+ hp carrot dangling in front of me.
 
norseman said:
That's some very solid advice. I think I'll probably stick to the plan and get the 210, it's just so tempting with that 240+ hp carrot dangling in front of me.
Click to expand...
Fuel availability is a part of it, Stage II has higher compression pistons, therefore the added cost. IMHO I like using regular gas.
 
Fuel is not a problem on the 240 hp kit as they are tuned for 87 octane. That being said I have not seen the comparison of fuel mileage between the kits. One uses the OEM pistons so cams and fuel plus the pipe create the extra HP. The other uses everything from the first only high compression more squeeze more bang for the buck. Myself I like power so since you're going to travel such a long distance to get the work done it would be even more expensive to add more later. Either way you will need a PCV and a set of their pipes to create the HP; these are extra on top of the kit. Other pipes can be used but if they do not flow as well then the power will be less the same goes with intake filter restriction.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Well I've got a PCV in hand and the Reband pipe may not flow like a Brute but it's got a lot more breath than stock. I've also got the "under bearclaw" filters on, so I think my air flow should be adequate to get at least close to the claimed HP gains for stage 1 or 2.

On the topic of air intake, do you have a "best case" air suggestion? I read that they do the tune with the filters off and just open throttle bodies... if I put larger (higher flow?) filters on, would it require another retune?
 
I stand corrected. Thanks Warp!
 
Bob tuned mine with the 1770s on, he said he hadn't seen them before, but liked them. I asked him about running higher octane, he said you'd lose a little power. I never rode a 210, so I can't help you. I love acceleration, I've hit the 9000 rpm rev limit, well, more than once.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

1/8mi drag race Touring vs the GT
2
Replies
11
Views
1K
1olbull
New CF Parts on EBay
Replies
1
Views
223
Sparky59
Slip-on and Air Filter... Tune Required?
Replies
2
Views
236
DocMcfly8555
Carpenter Bikes
Replies
8
Views
1K
Claviger
215hp street build
19 20 21
Replies
209
Views
18K
Kevin frazier
Menu
Log in
Register