Broke down

[DEcosse]

Yeah, if you turn off Kill, then back to Run, it should definitely not turn back on unless you pull clutch again, same as when you first initiate it.

 

[TURBO200R4]

With my keyless the kill switch and clutch are the ignition "ON".
Release of the clutch leaves the ignition "ON" and the lights as well.
I MUST break the bad habit of using the kickstand to shut down the motor.
Too easy to then climb off the motor, forget to turn off the kill switch and walk away.
This is what I did. Jump start was from a big-ass diesel pickup truck and perhaps I fried something.
What's strange to me is that all ran well for a couple miles when suddenly it shut down just like throwing the kill switch.

My battery tests a couple volts low and is now on the charger. We shall see . . .

when i left my ign on i had a guy help and he had his car running for 30 min would not start took me to waly world got a new bat still would not start so hooked up cables let his car another 30 minutes and then it started.
i don't get to worried about the small stuff i would just install the new bat check volts crank and check the volts to make sure it is charging.
worrying about the big stuff gets in the way of having fun

 

[1olbull]

The lights definitely will go off after a certain amount of time.

Wise-ass!
However correct.

 

[1olbull]

ON THE ROAD AGAIN . . .
After learning to properly use my multi-meter and how to check the battery and fuses from Ken @DEcosse I lucked out and found
the 20 amp fuse was fried. Replaced and Kong starts fine now. There were NO issues with the keyless system!!!
Hope there is no more stupidity on my part from now forward . . . likely a useless hope!
THANKS KEN!

 

[RKTNMYPKT]

ON THE ROAD AGAIN . . .
After learning to properly use my multi-meter and how to check the battery and fuses from Ken @DEcosse I lucked out and found
the 20 amp fuse was fried. Replaced and Kong starts fine now. There were NO issues with the keyless system!!!
Hope there is no more stupidity on my part from now forward . . . likely a useless hope!
THANKS KEN!

Geez! 6 whole pages on a blown fuse!
That's 6 hrs out of my life I'll never get back!

 

[DEcosse]

... That's 6 hrs out of my life I'll never get back!

Me too!

 

[DEcosse]

.... found the 20 amp fuse was fried ...

From the info supplied (no voltage present at any of the Fuses) it must have been Fuse 11 that failed - that should be 30A, not 20A
And probably why it failed - after the battery was drained, the charging system was sending high current to re-charge the battery plus the normal operating current (which is already in the 15-18 A or so range) and took it over that threshold.
So be sure you have a 30A fuse in that slot!

 

[breeze]

to hell with blown fuses its simple you let the smoke out whats with the locked up brakes?

 

[1olbull]

From the info supplied (no voltage present at any of the Fuses) it must have been Fuse 11 that failed - that should be 30A, not 20A
And probably why it failed - after the battery was drained, the charging system was sending high current to re-charge the battery plus the normal operating current (which is already in the 15-18 A or so range) and took it over that threshold.
So be sure you have a 30A fuse in that slot!

Darn, you be too smart Ken!!!
Twas indeed the 30 amp.
Dupdedo, dupdedo, dupdedo . . .

 

[DEcosse]

Do check the voltage across battery with bike running 'bull - just to be sure everything is OK in the charging department.