Attention ALL Electrical Guru's

[Lenny]

Good luck and please keep us post it

 

[TURBO200R4]

can bus usually refers to communication wires going from computer to another computer/module. for example on a car you might have a ecm(electronic control module)
communicating with the tcm (transmission control module) or antilock brake module,ect.
if something happens to the wires or a module it will set a can bus code.

for what it is worth
had a little time this morning so decided to play with the fuses on the rocket
pulled number 3 fuse.
results turned on ign**no tack sweep,no neutral light, trip 1 & 2 miles reset to 0, still had illumination in gauges, still made the speedo sweep.
pulled number 8 fuse.
lost parking lights,tail light,still had illumination in gauges.

 

[TURBO200R4]

Fred do you have an accessory port with anything plugged into it?
heated grips may be a problem,fuel gauge might be a problem. anything drawing to much current,
have you done a voltage check at the fuses to see if you are getting the correct volts into the insturments?

 

[barbagris]

Don't think so, still in the instruments




I ID'd the wiring right here in R3Owners.net - http://www.r3owners.net/threads/instrument-replacement.20608/#post-287645

There is no CANBUS on the the R3/Classics - only on Roadsters and Touring with the later ECU. Everything has a discrete signal, so after-market gauge can be used if desired on these models

That's all now filed away - Thank you!

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Fred do you have an accessory port with anything plugged into it?
heated grips may be a problem,fuel gauge might be a problem. anything drawing to much current,
have you done a voltage check at the fuses to see if you are getting the correct volts into the insturments?

Not using accessory port. No heated grips. Fuel gauge is functioning. Now that I have the pin out for the gauge set (thanks @DEcosse) it gets even stranger. Constant power wire (purple) is good. Ignition wire (green/red) to gauges reads 12.07 volts key on, engine off. That is with a known good car battery jumped onto the rockets battery just to rule it out. If I pull the engine management relay, I get sweep and idiot light test, which concludes with neutral light and low fuel light being on (as they should be). If I plug the engine management relay back in, the neutral and low fuel lights go back out, even though I'm still reading 12+ volts at the ignition wire (green/red). If I start the engine, they come back on. If I leave the engine management relay plugged in, and un-plug the engine sub harness connector under the tank, then the sweep / test works correctly. I'm currently (get it ? "current", a little electrical humor) eliminating things off that connector to rule them out. So far it's not the fuel injectors or the purge valve. More fun today. What I lack in skill, I more than make up for in tenacity and patience. So far I haven't reached the limitations of my medication

 

[warp9.9]

Not using accessory port. No heated grips. Fuel gauge is functioning. Now that I have the pin out for the gauge set (thanks @DEcosse) it gets even stranger. Constant power wire (purple) is good. Ignition wire (green/red) to gauges reads 12.07 volts key on, engine off. That is with a known good car battery jumped onto the rockets battery just to rule it out. If I pull the engine management relay, I get sweep and idiot light test, which concludes with neutral light and low fuel light being on (as they should be). If I plug the engine management relay back in, the neutral and low fuel lights go back out, even though I'm still reading 12+ volts at the ignition wire (green/red). If I start the engine, they come back on. If I leave the engine management relay plugged in, and un-plug the engine sub harness connector under the tank, then the sweep / test works correctly. I'm currently (get it ? "current", a little electrical humor) eliminating things off that connector to rule them out. So far it's not the fuel injectors or the purge valve. More fun today. What I lack in skill, I more than make up for in tenacity and patience. So far I haven't reached the limitations of my medication

I would say try someone else's gauges but if you have some other electrical demon causing the gauges to fry then you do not want that. Of course there are some on Flea Bay most about 240 a set I did find this 08 but it is missing the trip OD reset button.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335943355&icep_item=151554963311

They were the cheapest I found so far.
I think if I were to lose mine I would be looking at a after market one like what has been done on the other Rockets. Maybe something that gives more information.

 

[DEcosse]

... If I pull the engine management relay, I get sweep and idiot light test, which concludes with neutral light and low fuel light being on (as they should be).
If I leave the engine management relay plugged in, and un-plug the engine sub harness connector under the tank, then the sweep / test works correctly.

Hmm ...... interesting!
So - if ECU is not powered it seems to sweep normally;
and if engine sub-harness not connected, same;
suggests something affecting the ECU outputs which input to the clocks?
Possibly coolant temp?
What happens if you just unplug that sensor?

Another input from that engine connector that potentially impacts things is the oil pressure switch signal:
- ground when engine off, or ignition on, open when started/running (although that one is unrelated to ECU)

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Hmm ...... interesting!
So - if ECU is not powered it seems to sweep normally;
and if engine sub-harness not connected, same;
suggests something affecting the ECU outputs?
Possibly coolant temp?
What happens if you just unplug that sensor?

Thanks for helping me with this. Moral support is a great thing ! Do you know offhand where that sensor is ? If I ever did know, I've forgotten . My plan is to try to isolate everything that goes through that connector one at a time. I've been through things like this before where my voltage readings look correct. I'm possibly losing current somewhere due to a failing component, bad connection, bad ground. So far all the grounds I've checked are reading zero ohms back to the battery. The battle continues !

 

[Pedro]

Coolant temp sensor is under the termostat houseing chase the wire back up to under the tank you will find a plug

 

[warp9.9]

Fred you also know where the oil sensor is as you took it lose to do your repairs maybe something is amidst there?