I ran the stock Mobil syn up to 10k, then switched to Amsoil 10 40 for the next 40k, then Motul for the last 10k, and now have Rotella 5w 40 in the Rocket. Have put a couple hundred miles on the beast since and it seems to run nice and smooth and shifts smoothly too (well, as smoothly as can be expected of the Rocket). I also use the Rotella 5 40 in my KLR 650.
I really like this oil, its only about $5 per quart, and you can get it just about anywhere. I gave up on the Amsoil because it always had to be special ordered.
Our KLR's are different animals. I use 15-40 Rotella in my KLR. I considered the 5-40 but I seem to have lots of 15-40 on hand (55 gallon drum) so that's what I use. I have switched the automobiles to 5-40. My diesels are still on 15-40 until I deplete the the drum and then I'll switch over to 5-40 but I'll keep the KLR on the 15-40.
I posted on the other site (that you and I are familiar with) that 15-40 Rotella T meets the JASO MA standard although Shell prefers not to advertise that fact. It also meets the API GL 3-4 standard for gear train wear and boundary lubrication. Again, Shell prefers not to advertise that fact in as much as 15-40 Rotella's primary market is Class 6-7 & 8 truck engines.....How do I know that? I know a Shell Chemist in Bayonne, New Jersey.
The problem with using any oil not labelled JASO-MA (Rotella, T, 15-40 or 5-40 Synthetic) is that in the event of a lubricant related claim, Triumph, at their discretion, can disallow any warranty related remedy. Kawasaki also prefers a JASO MA rated oil. The big difference between the KLR and the R3 is that the KLR has no INSERT BEARINGS WHEREAS THE R3 HAS INSERT BEARINGS AND NO INSERTS IN THE CAM BEARINGS. The KLR can survive just fine on a non-certified lubricant because it depends less on boundary lubrication and film thickness, even though Kawasaki prefers a JASO-MA rated oil. I would think that if you don't have the Schintz 685-705 kit installed (I think you do), that your oil consumption would go up appreciably with the 5-40 simply because the 5-40 flows like a 5 weight at room temperature but has the film thickness of a 40 weight as well. Multigrade oils are a compromise at best.
Consequently, I'd use a JASO-MA
labelled oil like Mobil 4T Racing or Amsoil or Royal Purple or even 7th Gear. They all carry the JASO-MA certification. I believe that you'll find Amsoil at Murray's Auto Parts now as well as Pep Boys. The Stuff (although expensive) is everywhere. I'll be offering 7th Gear shortly on my webiste. I'll also be switching all my bikes to it as they need their lubricants changed. Everything is in the certification, especially if any warranty related claims come to light and we all know that the R3 seems to develop bearing problems in some units. I prefer not to play Russian Roulette. However, that's your choice. Also remember, we aren't running the oil in the KLR's nearly as long as the R3. The KLR gets a new lubricant fill (and possibly a filter change) twice to three times as often as the R3. They are both (in stock form) basically low revving, moderate compression engines, the big difference is in the bearings and to a lesser extent, the oil change interval.
If you have been running the Shell Rotella 5w-40 "synthetic", get an oil analysis done the next time you change your oil.
First, The oils available a couple of years ago, are not the same thing available today. Automotive and diesel oils have dropped (to less than half) the amount of ZDDP (Zinc and phosphorus) high load protection additive in their oils in order to get the latest oil spec rating. This started in 2006, so the automotive manufacturers can get over 100,000 miles from the catalytic converters.
Second, Rotella 5w-40 is not a true synthetic base. It is a highly refined mineral base oil. This is fine for low revving engines, but some bikes do not do well with this base - especially the cams and valvetrain.
Last, run whatever oil you want. Big Boy Rules apply. But become informed as to the latest changes in automotive over the counter oils, and bike specific oils - especially in bikes that use the same oil for the trans gears.
Not sure what Big Boy Rules are......
To me it's all about reading the label and checking the certifications, making sure the applicable certifications correspond with the OEM requirements.
The rule here is stick with a properly rated lubricant, in this case a JASO-MA rated oil. JASO-MA (Japanese Automobile Standards Organization - Motorcycle Applicable) rated oil is what you want, especially in light of the R3's internal problems. I'm not saying that Triumph would do a spectroscopic analysis on an oil sample coming from your engine if you had a warranty related claim, especially a lubrication related claim, but, better be safe than sorry. Personally, I had Amsoil 20-50 in my engine with an Emgo filter when it got ugly and there was no question on the repair. Had I had 5-40 or 15-40 Rotella in the engine and when the technician took it apart, if he observed a boundary lubrication deficiency (and that's pretty easy to ascertain) and they did a spectroscopic analysis on the lube oil and found out what I was using, I'm sure Triumph would have told me to stuff it. Remember, all oils have a distinct fingerprint that is easily read during a spectroscopic analysis. Basically, you can't fool mom. Why try.
There are many JASO-MA rated lubricants on the market. I've listed a few in the previous paragraphs.
Oil to me is like mouthwash. It's all the same to a point and that point is the API or the JASO rating.
