Putting the pod filter with the IAT close to one of the K&N's is better than above or close to the motor but it is still in a closed 'container'. The air will not flow through the pod filter but around it and so will never relay the true intake temperature to the ECU.

What percentage difference this makes is anyone's guess but ultimately it would be best to have the IAT actually in the intake air flow as intended.
 
In my opinion the more accurate the temperature reading of the air entering the engine the more accurate the ecu can calculate the proper amount of fuel to add. of course if your bike is being tuned on a dyno the operator is monitoring the gasses and therefore can make the needed changes. Just throwing a tune in and not having a accurate temp can throw thhe mix off a bit. When you look at the blower kits there are two main differences between them. By differences I mean the location of the sensor compared to style of kit. the standard kit measures air before it enters the blower which will naturally be cooler thus the ecu makes the fuel a little richer. if it was after the blower in the intake tract it would be measuring hot compressed air thus running a little leaner. Of course again a dyno man can adjust for this. The other style blower kit uses a intercooler and the sensor is in the intake tract after the air has passed thru the intercooler which is then feeding the ecu a measurement that is more accurate. Of course again the tunner can adjust as needed. Dbutton has found the OEM IAT to be off on his but this does not mean they are all off. The key here is to have it tuned on a dyno so needed changes can be made. Russel's bike was tuned by Nev so you can bet any needed changes have been accounted for.

Now the same can be said for NA motors as long as they have been tuned on a dyno they are much closer to the real needs of the motor. If your using auto tune it also will make the needed changes maybe not as accurate as being on a dyno but more accurate then just installiing a tune and running it. Believe it or not when people add fuel to eliminate the decel pop they could be taking power away from the lower end as they are not measuring the results. They are just looking at whether the pop goes away not the power change if any resulting from doing this.
Just my 2 cents worth.
 
What percentage difference this makes is anyone's guess but ultimately it would be best to have the IAT actually in the intake air flow as intended.

As I have said before, I have mounted the sensor in its own filter, positioned between the first and second K&Ns as well as in front of the first K&N. I have also poked a hole in a K&N and inserted the sensor directly into the filter.

Using a Scangauge and running in as close as possible to the same ambient air temps, there is no more than a degree or two in difference. I also checked the sensor in ambient temps before starting the bike to make sure it was reading correct temps.

So, my advice would be make it easy on yourself. Just get the sensor as close as possible to one of the filters and you'll be fine.
 
What he ^^ said.


Blowers are a whole different kettle of fish, but a topic in itself.. Later!
 
What he ^^ said.


Blowers are a whole different kettle of fish, but a topic in itself.. Later!

They may be a different kettle of fish Ruzz but the theroy of how it acts is the same. I just used it because with the intercooler I was able to monitor the temperature change between the compressed air and the cooled air. My bet is TTS put the IAT before the blower to deliberatley make it read cooler temperatures so the ecu would think it was densor and add fuel to it (make normally richer)
 
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