Two parts to your problem. The compression dampening for the R3 is a '*****" to get right. It needs heavy very low speed dampening due to its heavy sprung weight, light mid-speed dampening to feel comfortable and to hold the road over normal irregularities and then heavier high speed dampening again to control the heavy un-sprung weight. This is not easy to accomplish in any type shock. Add to this the less than ideal shock/wheel travel. The spring rate is less important than I thought it would be. The stock R3 Classic springs are about 265lb/in. I have tried 225, 175, 150 and 125lb/in rate springs on mine and four different type shocks. (Okay, I like to experiment a little.) I ended up using modified small body aluminum midget car shocks in which I have modified the valving. Going back in to them for the 7th time shortly to make another adjustment. They, along with 150 lb/in rate springs, are really nice riding one-up. But with Mary aboard and luggage I use the stock R3 shocks with 225lb/in springs heavily preloaded.
You can use 1-7/8" ID x 9 or 10" long midget race car springs (available for $80.00 pair or less online at Southwest Speed) on the stock shocks but you need to make a PVC spacer. Easy to do. A spring compressor takes the load off the shock eye and then the eye threads off. Release the spring compressor and it all comes apart. Just use care to not damage the shock rod. Scratches, dents and burrs will destroy the shaft seal in minutes. No buying the rod as a separate item either so use caution.
I have not tried the comfort shocks but think they might work well with replacement springs of choice. However, air shocks may be the only practical way to quickly adjust for large load changes. Just get a pair that have the dampers valved right for the R3. Most universal replacement motorcycle shocks, which include Progressives, are too much of a compromise for what they cost in my opinion. If Fournales come well recommended then they may be the best buy of all. I suggest also using longer shocks with longer travel. This combination will require less preload to hold normal ride height but still have the same bump travel. 13" to 13.5" long with 4" of travel works well set with 1-1/2 to 2" of sag with rider aboard. This gives good rebound extension over undulations and larger bumps which keeps the wheel on the ground. Works really well braking into a corner too. Adjusting preload to raise ride height and having minimal extension travel left (little or no sag) is a recipe for a rough riding motorcycle.