ABS - REAR BRAKE PEDAL LOCK-UP

[Rocket Scientist]

To me the advantages of ABS are worth the hassle.

I'm by no means an expert on antilock brakes, but to me it sounds like valve issue in the abs unit. Activating when it doesn't need to (at least on cars) is usually a wheel speed sensor going bad. Yours sounds like it isn't returning the brake to "man control" on occasion. Does the scan tool verify the wheel speed sensors are working ?

 

[Boog]

You've done my thought, change the fluid completely. My dealer is pushing me to do so due to mileage.

 

[RKTNMYPKT]

Have you tried changing out the wiper fluid?

 

[warp9.9]

Have you tried changing out the wiper fluid?

Heck I was wondering if he forgot the turn signal

 

[WyldCFH]

I'm a bit confused by the wording I think. Is the brake pedal just not moving on occasion or the rear tire is locking up and the ABS isn't activating?

If the brake pedal is not moving, check linkages and bushings
If the tire is locking up, enjoy the fishtails... just kidding. Possibly a caliper issue with the piston rubbing against something and not freeing up. Possibly a minor bend in the rotor or ABS rotor that is causing it to catch harder than it should.

 

[Bedifferent]

I am not sure what the cause or remedy for this.
After riding some of the highest Colorado passes my rear ABS started activating on routine stops. Thinking it was air in the lines, I bled both front and rear brakes - the old fashion way and with no DealerTool.

The brakes worked good - for awhile. Ever since, intermittently and without warning, when applying my rear brakes the pedal locks up! Applying much additional foot pressure, they still do not fully activate.

This has caused me several pucker moments at higher speeds, both when busting twisties and once while following some mates passing a vehicle ahead which required some sharp slowing for the next vehicle and motors ahead of me.

My rear brakes will work properly for a few hours and then lock.
There is no warning and I never know when the pedal will suddenly lock-up!
I purchased the DealerTool and have bled both front and rear with it several times, following the manual procedure close as possible. The issue persists and had obviously adversely affected my spirited riding.

Suggestions and/or comments welcome . . .

Since you mentioned the DealerTool I have been thinking about buying it since it is not that pricey. I understand you have to send them some information from the first time use to get a key to make it function with your particular bike. If you retune your ECU, does that affect the Key they have sent you. Do you know??

 

[albertaduke]

Since you mentioned the DealerTool I have been thinking about buying it since it is not that pricey. I understand you have to send them some information from the first time use to get a key to make it function with your particular bike. If you retune your ECU, does that affect the Key they have sent you. Do you know??

I have the dealer tool and bike is not affected by a re -tune, probably apply to all dealertools

 

[Bedifferent]

I have the dealer tool and bike is not affected by a re -tune, probably apply to all dealertools

Hmmm....Is there more than one DealerTool?

DealerTool diagnostic access to your ECU, for Triumph, Keihin and Sagem ECUs. Dealer Tool OBD and diagnostic interface for Daytona, 675, sprint, speed triple, bonneville, tiger, Rocket3, Rocket

 

[TriumPhil]

I know a lot of dealer Tools.

 

[TURBO200R4]

Check for codes first. some codes do not turn on check eng light.
on cars***if it has a dedicated fuse we sometimes pull it for checking purposes to see if it still has probs
after it does the prob u might carry a tool and loosen the bleeder to see if it has pressure.
make sure that pedal is returning to stop.