Resource Download 2011 2011 R3R Tors Ramair with more fuel and less timing in cruise, decel pop added Revision 1 (For use)

[John Miller]

Put this tune in. Followed the guidance to set TPS to 64 closed 76 open and man this is the smoothest tune. Still powerful like the one I got from the tuner but so smooth transitioning from TPS to MAP. Well done @John Miller

Glad you like it, I did put a lot of work into it smoothed out a lot of issues and the AFR is really good without being too rich, mind you it is thirsty but not overly so.

It is good to get your feedback.

Cheers

 

[Martin-Brighton-uk]

One question though @John Miller, where you added the decel pop. Where did you add that in? I'm looking at reducing mine a bit as while it's great, it has me doing it all the time just for badness and gets me gee'd up riding like a nutter. I need a cruise option haha. (Serious question)

 

[John Miller]

Hey Martin, the decal pop addition is supposed to reduce the popping, its actually an enrichment function at closed throttle in the L table.
The very first column at 0 hPa has been filled with values which are about 60% of those in the 1% column next to it. This column is factory set at zero, higher number will add fuel lower number will remove fuel. Generally a lean state will cause popping but it can also be caused by too much fuel, you can delete all the values and set it back to zero and see how it performs, wont effect the engine at all and might actually help reduce popping ( I did reduce mine originally to what it is now as it was popping a lot - mine only pops very slightly) the addition of fuel helps cool the pistons under closed throttle condition - more is better in that regard, but there is a happy medium.

 

[Martin-Brighton-uk]

Great thanks John. I've been reading up that decel popping with a very open exhaust can occur and means the bike is actually tuned well. I'll try playing around with the zero hPa setting to see if I can reduce it somewhat.

 

[Martin-Brighton-uk]

Tried setting the zero hPa column to 0 in the L tables and it's worse. So back to your settings and I might try going up a bit.

 

[John Miller]

Martin if that doesn't help you can try to set the F&L switch point to Zero currently its set at 3% - I did play around quite a lot with the FL switching point to find something that worked for me.

How is your throttle balance - all good there - no vacuum leaks.

I also found a leak with my injector seals allowing vacuum to leak past the O rings that the injectors seal against within each of the intake manifolds. The only way I found the vacuum leak was to spray some propellant around the manifolds and the injectors, with the vacuum leaking, it would draw the propellant into the intake and cause the idle speed to increase only when the propellant was sprayed over the point at which vacuum was leaking.

I am thinking you may have a vacuum leak causing the decal pop - my R3 only gives one or two small pops at about 1500rpm on decal from any RPM, might be worth checking.

 

[Martin-Brighton-uk]

Realised I hadn't mentioned that I've got different end cans on it now causing the popping. With the TORS it's fantastic tune, just right. It's since I put the Dave Platts on that I'm getting the popping. Might even go back to the TORS as I like the look of them. Having a play around with the FL switch will try to increase it a little. First to 5 then maybe 10 in the mid section

 

[John Miller]

Martin - 1 thing I can confirm is that when using the wideband O2 sensor, when going to closed throttle the ARF does go very rich - into the 12:1 area so therefore I expect the shorter cans are releasing the exhaust before it has had sufficient time to burn the excess fuel fully before it exits the muffler. This is why you are experiencing the popping / backfire, to correct this fully you would need a wideband O2 sensor and start experimenting with different fuel settings under closed throttle conditions. The answer is not in changing the FL switching point but in changing the table values at closed throttle to obtain an AFR that is closer to 14:1 within the L table. you can do this by selecting all the columns from 0 up to around 900hPa and reduce in stages of about 3% and try it.


Or

As you say by putting the TORS back on - LOL

 

[Andy_France]

Hi quite new to the thread and the forum...

I have a standard 2013 uk bike with factory exhausts. I will fit a Ramair filter this summer to help it breathe a little better.

Looking at the kits, one retailer says it doesn't require a remap, but the ramair site says it does.

Will this remap, work for a standard exhaust RIII with a ramair, largely used for touring and straight line sprints from 70mph upwards.

Many thanks

 

[John Miller]

Hi quite new to the thread and the forum...

I have a standard 2013 uk bike with factory exhausts. I will fit a Ramair filter this summer to help it breathe a little better.

Looking at the kits, one retailer says it doesn't require a remap, but the ramair site says it does.

Will this remap, work for a standard exhaust RIII with a ramair, largely used for touring and straight line sprints from 70mph upwards.

Many thanks

Thank you for your message.
I have done a lot of work tuning the R3 and validated the tune with a wideband O2 sensor. If you are going to use the standard exhaust it will not need a remap it will run only very slightly leaner than stock but not enough to make any real difference because the cat box will not allow the engine to breath fully. It will be fine without a remap. If however you install better mufflers without the cat box it will make a significant difference and will require a different tune.

Cheers John