Gothlander

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Joined
Feb 15, 2007
Messages
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Location
Gold Coast Australia
Been riding in the rain with no front fender, stopped to pick up daughters bike from service and the oil light came on when I started my bike to leave. It started to run like **** so I stopped to check it out could'nt see anything wrong so I limped home 2 klms checked with tuneboy no prob's. Oil light is still on and oil tank is full, it runs ok for awhile and then runs like crap (cuts out). I turn it off for while and it runs ok then crap again. Will low oil pressure cause the bike to cut out via ECU ? Have I corrupted the ECU with water in the wiring ? If so can it be reset ?

Any ideas anyone ? Please
 
Could be saturation under the fuel tank. Coil(s) or plug wires. Oil pressure sensor is yet another point of likely saturation, though unrelated to misfiring. Get your leaf blower out and give 'er a thorough drying. My $0.02 worth.
 
Has anyone had this problem ?

I've never seen it mentioned on this site or heard of anyone having that problem. I'm suspecting, like heR3tic that you have some waterlogged wiring. I'd be pulling the connectors apart and drying everything and applying some di-electric grease. Why, on earth would you ride with no front fender, especially in the rain? There are a lot of electrics right in the path of that water spray not to mention that crud coming off the road and pelting the radiator. I remember when I was a kid, taking the fenders off my bicycle and riding once, I mean once in the rain. After that, the fenders went back on. I suspect you were the creature of your own demise......
 
oil pump shaft

I pulled the water pump off and looked inside, the drive dog has sheared off were it connects to the water pump. The sprocket that drives the pumps has come off and I can't see the chain. I am staying calm, do you think I will have to shoot it ? put it out of it's misery. I drove it home and hope I didn't do much damage, what do you guy's think ? I know im an idiot so dont tell me that. I thought it was a sensor problem. I wonder if the water pump seized and caused the fault, it did have a smack in the front when I got it. Such is life.
 
I won't tell you that you are an idiot. You may be ****ed lucky though. I'm presuming the engine still turns over, no squeaks or nothing indicating that it's tight, right?. If you are running JASO MA spec oil and not cheap Quaker State, Full synthetic has a lot of lubricity even without oil pressure, oil pressure you don't have anymore. Probably though, the only thing that would suffer almost immediately would be the camshaft blocks as the cams both run in the aluminum cast head with no bearings whatsoever and the head isn't rebuildable. It's replaceable only.

You need to pull the front of the engine. The radiator needs to come off and the complete clutch cover need to be removed to access the pump, sprocket and drive chain. I'd suggest in the very least a Triumph Shop Manual. It's all described on pages 9.12 and 9.13. The pressure pump is accessible and removable without splitting the cases. The scavenge pump isn't. You may be very lucky.

I've heard of no one snapping the pump shaft or loosing that chain. Maybe the divot in the cover accelerated the problem. Sounds like a likely cause to me.

Put the friggin front fender back on. You ain't no teeney bopper.
 
Oil shart

Thanks Guy's, I do have the manual and Flip I am waiting for a fender from Alaska should be here this week. I had borrowed a fender to register the bike but had to give it back, I just put TOR's on and a new tune and just had to ride. I nursed the bike back home and hope I did no damage, but I am not feeling lucky at the moment.
 
Water pump drive shaft

These are pictures of the Water pump drive shaft, Flip maybe with your Knowledge you could tell me how you think the shaft broke? The witness marks on the water pump end seem to suggest movement between the drive dog and the w/pump . I don't know but maybe the impact from the crashed front end flexed the water pump and fractured the shaft at the sprocket.
 

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