Oil light

[Gothlander]

Sharper images

Here are some sharper pictures, It looks like the water pump has deformed near the O ring. The end of the shaft looks like it might have been moving in the female dog. This may have made the shaft deflect and metal fatigue set in, this i think is confirmed by the break pattern on the other end with the ridge in the middle. I would say also the water pump shaft is bent. The damage on the outside of the W/pump housing is opposite the deformed W/pump shaft housing, this plus the fact that the W/pump is only fastened by two bolts at the bottom and make it prone to bending.

 

[Sidecar Flip]

The water pump only needs two bolts holding it simply because it's not supposed to be impacted by anything. I'd say it looks to me like someone tried to jack the bike up at one time and maybe the jack slipped by the looks of the waterpump casting.

You'll have to pull the front cover to access the oil pump, sprocket and chain. It's an endless chain. You'll need gaskets, most likely the pump, a new sprocket and a new chain and possibly the upper sprocket. The scavenge pump runs directly behing the pressure pump but it requires a case split.

Depending on how long you rode it with no oil circulation will weigh on whether the upper cam blocks are shot. You reall won't know until you get it back together and started just how much damage has been done. I'd pull the valve train cover just to be on the safe side and pour new motor oil over the overhead (making sure you flood all the cam blocks)(after you replace the pressure pump and before you start it up).

I take it the bike was pre-owned?

 

[Gothlander]

pump

It was a writeoff, tripple tree broken, forks broken, wheel broken, radiator broken, fender bent. All replaced.

 

[Sidecar Flip]

It was a writeoff, tripple tree broken, forks broken, wheel broken, radiator broken, fender bent. All replaced.

No doubt, you'll be replacing a few more parts. Chalk it up to collateral damage.

It wasn't 'pre-owned', it was 'pre-wrecked'.

 

[Triple Trouble]

Chances are you had good oil pressure. The idiot light also doubles as over heat warning and you have to check where the little arrow is pointing. Without oil pressure, regardless of the type of oil, major engine damage will result from running with no pressure.

 

[scot in exile]

BigErn is the guy to check with he used to have the most experience with the Rocket engine. Not saying that flip and his disciples do not.

 

[Sidecar Flip]

BigErn is the guy to check with he used to have the most experience with the Rocket engine. Not saying that flip and his disciples do not.

Scot:

BigErn hasn't been on the forum for at least 9 months. What became of him is anyones guess.

Jack knows about taking the Rocket apart. I'm sure he pulled the front cover to replace the lower timing sprocket.

 

[Gothlander]

parts

The engine seems ok at this stage, I am thinking the motor shuts down due to either over heating or low oil pressure. I covered about 1.5 Klms in three stages, I shut it down at each part of those stages and tuneboy didn't show any errors. I have ordered new parts that I will fit myself-

WATER PUMP
5570381-001 | Triumph ROCKET III COOLING SYSTEM
1$143.86Pending

BOLT,RHHF,DOMED S/LESS M6X50
5576198-001 | Triumph ROCKET III COOLING SYSTEM
2$8.32Pending

O-RING,ID17.86,2.62T
5576931-001 | Triumph ROCKET III COOLING SYSTEM
1$0.98Pending

ELBOW, 8MM
5570391-001 | Triumph ROCKET III COOLING SYSTEM
1$0.85Pending

CLUTCH COVR,ASSY
5567160-001 | Triumph ROCKET III ENGINE COVER(S)
1$250.11Pending

GASKET,CLUTCH COVER
5567159-001 | Triumph ROCKET III ENGINE COVER(S)
1$9.11Pending

LIFTER SHAFT,CLUTCH
5565780-001 | Triumph ROCKET III ENGINE COVER(S)
1$40.20Pending

PUMP, OIL
5566356-001 | Triumph ROCKET III LUBRICATION SYSTEM
1$201.08Pending

BOLT, RHHF, M6X40,RAW,10.9
5576161-001 | Triumph ROCKET III LUBRICATION SYSTEM
3$4.05Pending

SPROCKET, OIL PUMP, 25T
5566442-001 | Triumph ROCKET III LUBRICATION SYSTEM
1$23.18Pending

LOCKNUT,M10 X 1.25
5576507-001 | Triumph ROCKET III LUBRICATION SYSTEM
1$2.69Pending

SPROCKET,CRANKSHAFT,19T
5565427-001 | Triumph ROCKET III CAMSHAFT & CAMSHAFT DRIVE
1$58.31Pending

KEY, CRANKSHAFT
5565051-001 | Triumph ROCKET III CAMSHAFT & CAMSHAFT DRIVE
1$9.03Pending

CLAMPING, SPACER
5556903-001 | Triumph ROCKET III CAMSHAFT & CAMSHAFT DRIVE
1$15.38Pending

S.H. C/S ENCAPSUL''D M8x20 RAW
5575871-001 | Triumph ROCKET III CAMSHAFT & CAMSHAFT DRIVE
1$0.73Pending

I will replace the lower cam chain sprocket and the clutch lifter shaft while I have the front off, does anyone know if these parts have been updated ? The front cover is deformed over the clutch, with fractures visible on the inside and was probably the reason the clutch needed adjusting when I first got the bike. So to make shure it does NOT happen again I am replacing everthing that may have been stressed. The lesson is "warning light stop bike". I mistakenly thought it was a sensor malfunction due to no front fender and the rain, never again will I do that.

 

[Sidecar Flip]

sprocket+ lifter arm?

The crankshaft-cam chain sprocket is updated to cure the sudden loss of valve timing issue. I'm not sure about the clutch lifter. You'll have to check the TBS bulletins on that.

I'm glad I wasn't riding that bike when the previous owner ran into an immovable object. Sounds like the front end came back and kissed the cover/water pump. I'd imagine you will still be ahead as I presume you bought the bike at salvage.

 

[Gothlander]

Clutch

Ok update time, pulled front cover off, removed oil pressure pump (you can remove the pressure pump from the front but not the scavenge pump). The chain and sprocket looked ok but I had to remove the clutch basket to fit the pump back on when I get it from bike bandit (two or three weeks). The problem was I needed the triumph clutch tool (dont panic) which I had not ordered so how else can I do this, so I called the local triumph dealer and they said they use a impact driver. Well I dont have one, so done some googling and found a 12 volt impact driver that connects to your car battery 400 nm $99.00 from bursons they use them to remove wheel nuts. The driver worked real well probably better than the clutch tool, I didn't even have it in gear (to stop the clutch from spinning) it was brilliant I just held the inner clutch drum with a rag. So the cause of the failure was as far as I can make out the crash that the bike had pushed the front wheel into the water pump and front cover. This deformed the pump bent it slightly so it stressed the oil pump drive shaft which then fatigued and broke, I think it may have bent the water pump shaft and made it hard to turn as well.