I shaved 19lbs off from the riding saddle and expect to shave another 12 by june first , most of it bit by bit . cheapest way so far and feeling better everydays no crash diet but a steady cardio and a dietary regimen. there is no crash diet working period , what you lose you regain when you stop .
you have to change your food intake period and be patient.
maybe I will look at the BST wheels as well that would be a quick definite weight loss to add.
Well you've missed an easy one - Change to Lithium Battery.
If you had a proper R3 you could put some lightweight instruments on.
Ride naked with no lid - that's a few kilos. There is precedence. 1948.
You could of course just stand near one of those exploding shells again - That should generate more than adrenaline dump. Should be good for a couple of kilos on race day.
imo - Carbon wheels are things for tracks - but on real world roads with gravel and stuff that chips surfaces - they are a bit of a time bomb.
@Claviger - One point of note on those footpegs. My experiencing of knurled/machined metal foot pegs is that they are like vibrating burrs and destroy the soles of boots REALLY fast. The same applies to toe shifters.
They come as zero offset, 25mm, or 40mm arms so you can adjust your foot position, moved them 45 degrees back and down to start, grip is excellent on my boots.
An m8 washer will take up any slop and make em feel perfect. Now to do something about the clunky heavy stock foot control arms.
Long on the search for little places here and there to save weight I decided to replace my fork protectors and get weights this time:
Finally replaced the ones broken last year, but this time with twill instead of plain, twill wasn’t available back then, matchy matchy to the carbon dry stuff now
570 would be amazing!! I think the lowest an R3 can be brought down to without replacing major components is probably around 620 race weight, and that’d require some permanent changes/cutting extra bits off.