Which wire to tap for switched power?

This is some good $tuff. I have had the same dead battery issue from a left side accessory European electrical connector as Ricochet.
I would appreciate your offered diagram.
Gratitude,
1olbull

No problem;
Very simple solution. I have also included some links for the relay and holder and a simple automotive fuse block as examples.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Waterpr...197?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1585350d

There are many 12v relays on the market and the main difference is it's rating for example 40 or 80 amps. That determines what the maximum current draw you can have on the relay. Some numbers on the relay may be different than the one in the diagram but they all come with schematics printed on the relay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATC-ATO-4-W...BLADE-AUTO-CAR-TRUCK-MOTORCYCLE-/331106933967

Small automotive fuse block you can pick up anywhere. In the diagram it shows a terminal block which can be substituted for the fuse block. Add a bit of wire and some solder less connectors and voila......power distribution centre. If you need help putting one of these together just give me a shout.
image.jpg
 
Ok so my understanding is that once the Fuseblock is attached to the battery, you simply just connect the red and black wire of the accessory to the fuseblock directly, no needing of special connectors or anything like that, just screw the wire into the little screws? If so, thats pretty cool. That PC-8 is fairly pricey though! What length of PC-8 Is recommended for the Rocket? Would you go with the 30amp or 50amp version?
 
Hey Ricochet, here is a Canadian company, nice fellas.
http://www.motorcycleinnovations.ca/Fuzeblock_FZ1_p/fuzeblock.htm
The fuse block has a built in relay and makes install easy.
That's tidy.
I use a 12 way block and a bloody great big 70Amp relay.

Always go for overkill on relays.

If you need a low amperage switched supply there are connectors under the tank for foglights and heated grips (clock and fuel gauge too on older bikes). Just buy the correct plug - no splicing required.
 
Hey Ricochet, here is a Canadian company, nice fellas.
http://www.motorcycleinnovations.ca/Fuzeblock_FZ1_p/fuzeblock.htm
The fuse block has a built in relay and makes install easy. There are a lot of product on the market or you can build your own to save space. If you want the schematics I can email them to you. You can pick up the parts for probably $30 if you build your own.
Cheers
Thank you!! I always prefer to go Canadian if its possible... much easier for shipping and other things... I like this design too.


The biggest difference I see is that the FZ1 allows you to customize which items are always switched on constantly or off... and the other is that the PC8 has a huge relay attached to it.. why wouldn't the FZ1 have a relay? Is there such a huge benefit to having the relay that I am not seeing.. hell i'll admit I am not sure what a relay does anyway... can someone please explain in simple terms the benefit of either?

EDIT: Never mind... theres a 30amp relay built right into the FZ1...
 
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That's tidy.
I use a 12 way block and a bloody great big 70Amp relay.

Always go for overkill on relays.

If you need a low amperage switched supply there are connectors under the tank for foglights and heated grips (clock and fuel gauge too on older bikes). Just buy the correct plug - no splicing required.
Agree on the size of the relay, there is an inline fuse to protect the circuit
 
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Thank you!! I always prefer to go Canadian if its possible... much easier for shipping and other things... I like this design too.


The biggest difference I see is that the FZ1 allows you to customize which items are always switched on constantly or off... and the other is that the PC8 has a huge relay attached to it.. why wouldn't the FZ1 have a relay? Is there such a huge benefit to having the relay that I am not seeing.. hell i'll admit I am not sure what a relay does anyway... can someone please explain in simple terms the benefit of either?

EDIT: Never mind... theres a 30amp relay built right into the FZ1...
The reason you want to install a power distribution system is mainly for the relay. Think of the relay as a light switch, when the power is off on the bike, there is no power to your peripherals. Therefore minimizing that battery draining current flow.
Cheers
 
The reason you want to install a power distribution system is mainly for the relay. Think of the relay as a light switch, when the power is off on the bike, there is no power to your peripherals. Therefore minimizing that battery draining current flow.
Cheers

Cool. Thanks for the explanation! Sounds like something I am definitely interested in. Are there any other good manufacturers to consider? Pc8 and fz1 both look great. I like the fz1 how it allows you to choose which ones are switched or not
 
Look at marine suppliers for distribution boxes - Look at the dimensions obviously. I use this
I use one like this
5026.jpg

5026cov.jpg

It's BIG. and near fills the air filter box. But was cheaper. Everything I fit gets it's own separate fuse - nothing taps into stock wiring because it simply is too fine to trust in. Wires are terminated with crimped ring connectors for the screws and heat shrink.

Consists of two separate banks of 6 fuses with screw connections.
Each bank has a common feed for main (+ve) connection.
A common negative bus provides 12 screw connections for negative connections.
Main connections by 5mm studs.
Materials:
Base is reinforced polycarbonate.
Cover is clear polycarbonate.
Buses are tin plated copper.
Dimensions: Length 164mm, width 84mm, depth 57mm.
Ratings: 30A per fuse, 100A per bank.

Yes - OTT. But no risk of overheating, shorts, etc....

I'd STRONGLY recommend you always fit relays using proper relay sockets too. Why? - wait until you have to change one - at night in the rain on an unlit road.

I'd want to know if the FZ1 relay can be swapped out if it fails - The EB can. ime - use industry standard components - they're cheap and easy to find.
 
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Look at marine suppliers for distribution boxes - Look at the dimensions obviously. I use this
I use one like this
5026.jpg

5026cov.jpg

It's BIG. and near fills the air filter box. But was cheaper. Everything I fit gets it's own separate fuse - nothing taps into stock wiring because it simply is too fine to trust in. Wires are terminated with crimped ring connectors for the screws and heat shrink.



Yes - OTT. But no risk of overheating, shorts, etc....

I'd STRONGLY recommend you always fit relays using proper relay sockets too. Why? - wait until you have to change one - at night in the rain on an unlit road.

I'd want to know if the FZ1 relay can be swapped out if it fails - The EB can. ime - use industry standard components - they're cheap and easy to find.
Chris do you have maker / model info on this, I had my local Chandler looking for something like that with no luck from his suppliers, alternativly would you be willing to send one over. It is exactly the type I have been looking for
 
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