So at 19,000 on the clock this is where the valves were on my 2008. Have the valves checked at 20K. I'll do it at 40K again. I thought I heard them when she was cold but when it warmed up the noise went away. I thought it was cold injectors. Crisis averted though. 20K service at Ray Price in Raleigh NC: $580 including new tappets and extra shop time.
I recommend that you upgrade your cam chain tensioner while your at it.This is where any vavle issues will start , theres plenty written about it in this forum,my 2cents.
So at 19,000 on the clock this is where the valves were on my 2008. Have the valves checked at 20K. I'll do it at 40K again. I thought I heard them when she was cold but when it warmed up the noise went away. I thought it was cold injectors. Crisis averted though. 20K service at Ray Price in Raleigh NC: $580 including new tappets and extra shop time.
Just did mine at 10000 and 2 had closed to 0.05 (inlet) and 1 closed down to 0.12 (ex)
Now got a nice new cam chain (looks nothing like the old one!) guides (had the old bendy one in) fitted tripples and it runs better than I do.
Just did mine at 10000 and 2 had closed to 0.05 (inlet) and 1 closed down to 0.12 (ex)
Now got a nice new cam chain (looks nothing like the old one!) guides (had the old bendy one in) fitted tripples and it runs better than I do.
SORRY But I would do it if I was you, checking the valves is not that difficult to be honest just get a bit more involved when you need to take the cam's out.