TuneECU recommendations.

[ianlamb5000]

Thanks for the info dougl. If you can compare tunes with TuneECU I could probably try a few different maps to get the one with the fuel closest to what it is now just with open secondaries. I just love the torque in fifth and want to see what its like in all the gears without having to drop a chuck for a PCV or TuneBoy or GIPro. Those just add to the possible things that can fail.

 

[dougl]

Thanks for the info dougl. If you can compare tunes with TuneECU I could probably try a few different maps to get the one with the fuel closest to what it is now just with open secondaries. I just love the torque in fifth and want to see what its like in all the gears without having to drop a chuck for a PCV or TuneBoy or GIPro. Those just add to the possible things that can fail.

I doubt you would miss anything except top speed over 120.

 

[dougl]

Power commanders are proven technology and Tuneboy is just software like TuneEcu. Finding dyno tuners who can tune using those software programs can be difficult. GiPro is worthless unless you need a gear indicator.

 

[barbagris]

Power commanders are proven technology and Tuneboy is just software like TuneEcu. Finding dyno tuners who can tune using those software programs can be difficult. GiPro is worthless unless you need a gear indicator.

If you get a Power Commander V (5, whatever) with the additional Autotune box - It will self tune. Useful if (like me) you have no Dyno centre near.

DO NOT LET THEM SELL YOU A POWER COMMANDER 3. Despite what Dynojet say - the PC5 will fit older R3's.

Hanso has done a mass of leg-work in finding the target AFR's - and he's generous enough to share that info. Great thing is that if you make any future changes - the Autotune will compensate.

I agree on the GiPro - there is no need for ATRE if you have TuneECU. I do have one fitted as gear indicator - but at the next service it'll be coming off.

 

[HansO]

Drop me a PM if you decide to go the PCV + AT route

 

[ianlamb5000]

Should have my cable for TuneECU in the next few days. Going to give that a try and see how it goes. Even with the different maps wouldn't the ecu try to compensate for afr's with the O2 sensors reading the output?

 

[dougl]

Uncheck the O2 sensor box in TuneECU and disconnect the sensor cable under the right side triangle cover. After you load a custom tune, hit "reset adaptations". With the sensor connected in the stock tunes the ecu will use it to lean it out at low throttle position.

 

[ianlamb5000]

So with a map from TuneECU if I keep the o2 sensor hooked up it will run lean? If so I may as well take the cat out of it too right?

 

[barbagris]

So with a map from TuneECU if I keep the o2 sensor hooked up it will run lean? If so I may as well take the cat out of it too right?

Lets make this simple.

A TuneECU map is just a map. Having the right map is what matters.

TuneECU is just a tool to let you upload/download maps and do diagnostics. IT WILL LOAD BOG STANDARD TRIUMPH MAPS OR MODIFIED MAPS.

It will only run lean at low load if you allow it to. TRIUMPH R3 maps (modified or not) have two sets of fuel maps. So called LOAD and FUEL.

The O2 sensor is only used in LOAD mode which counter intuitively means LOW LOAD. How and when the switch is made from LOAD to FUEL and visa versa is defined in the F->L switch values.

In FUEL MODE it's a simple "X" rpm and "Y" TPS equals "Z" fuel equation.
In load mode it's pretty much the same but with a "try to get close to the AFR values" addition. This is rudimentary as the O2 sensor is only narrow band - so pretty much sends OK,LEAN,RICH signals to the ECU.

Pretty much ALL modified maps have only modified the FUEL tables. Almost none have touched the LOAD MAPS or IGNITION timing.

IT IS IMO VERY VERY DANGEROUS TO GET INTO THIS UNTIL YOU READ THE F*CKING MANUAL. http://www.tuneecu.com/Tunes_in_Hex_and_dat/TuneECU/TuneECU_2_5_Description_En.zip

If you're going to ignore the sensor - take it out and blank off the hole. ALSO get a sensor wiring plug - as much as anything to keep the connectors clean.

 

[ianlamb5000]

Okay, I haven't gotten my cable yet so I haven't made any changes. I miss read what a few of you were saying the other day, but after reading the manual for TuneECU (something I wish I had done days ago, would have made everything yall are saying a lot easier to understand. Thanks barbagris) I think I understand it all now, at least basically. SOOOOOO, here is what I should do when I change out the maps.

1. Have a good battery charger on the bike.
2. Make sure TuneECU connects.
3. Recover the existing map and save it.
4. Find the correct map.
5. Install the correct map.
6. Reset the adaptations.
7. Take it for a spin and hopefully not get thrown off the back.
8. Reconnect TuneECU and make sure AFR values are good from the ride and if it isn't between 13-14 ask one of yall how to tweak it so it is.

Sound about right? If you read my first post of the thread you would know I had no knowledge of what to do but once I have seen how to do it or been taught, I won't forget it. I'm very good mechanically and with computers so I just need a few pointers and I'm good to go.

Thanks again for everyone's help and advice.