Yes, I have a couple of booster plugs laying around, wanted to check AIT connector type, Might save some time and hassle if I knew exactly where it was.
Parts diagram isn't much help
 
have to be near the throttle bodies wouldnt it?
It's on the right side of the air filter box on the 1200 Scrambler. Seems to be a Common place to put it. (Not necessarily the right side, but around the air filter box that is)
 
Booster plug says they won't make one for 2020 R3 cause it's too difficult to get to. I'll keep digging.
 
Hi Guys.
I've been off the grid for a few months now. Life's not been the best and with this Virus it isn't improving. To summerise. We had a minor problem with the bike, not related to supercharging, this should have set us back only a couple of weeks. Unfortunately when I came back from my Thailand holiday I had to go into quarantine for 14 days. I also came back to finding my sister was in a hospice and very sick. Because of this Covid Virus I was only able to visit her after the 14 days. Luckily I did visit her and say my last goodbyes and she died the next day from a very aggressive cancer. This has knocked me sideways to say the least. In addition my operations to sort my carpel tunnel syndrome in both wrists have been postponed, and now I've got Gall bladder issues and will be going in for a scan next week. Life's a ***** sometimes. My problems are not life threatening but certainly get in the way. My condolences go out to all those people hurting because of this Covid virus.

On a plus note JE will have some forged low comp pistons to me in the next couple of weeks so I can really lean on the motor with some safety.

What I have found through testing is that the throttle position is limited in every gear. This bike never sees full throttle. 3-6th gear it sees 90% at 3000 rpm dropping progressively to 75% by 5000 revs and finishing at 64% by the rev limiter, and 50% in top gear by the rev limiter. This is the same in rain/road or sport modes. I also found that adding a few degrees of ignition timing was worth about 4-5 hp.
Mods I have done are:
1. moved the clocks forward on the bars, I turned the mount around and cut a couple of lugs off it, it now sits central to the bars centre line, I no longer have to dip my head to see what speed i'm doing. simple mod but makes the ride nicer.
2. chopped 90% of the silencer/muffler away, just leaving the right side pipes and opened the exit pipes out to 2 inch. It now weighs about 25 lb less and it now sounds like a motorcycle.
3. For those who wondered how I was going to manipulate the fuel and ignition, i'll come clean :). I cross matched a Powercommander V and fitted an ignition module. It wasn't straightforward but it worked first time.
4. Supercharging. This is really what you wanted to know! We are up to around 240 whp and 240 ft'lb of torque but I'm not going to push any further until I get those JE pistons in the motor. I've seen the OE pistons and through my experience I feel they won't take what we want out of them engine.
IMG_1198.JPG
Clocks are just a couple of inches forward but it makes a huge difference.
IMG_1197.JPG
Looks stock
IMG_1200.JPG
Not stock.
IMG_1196.JPG
Big bore exit pipes.
R3 REMAP.JPG


First run modded pipe verses modded pipe and remapped with PCV. Really only brings it back to where it was stock but with a throatier noise and a big weight loss, but still a great looking pipe.
r3 sc.JPG

Supercharged Power. Development will commence when we beef the motor up with the JE pistons. The curve was so strong it alarmed me, i'm not brave enough to lean on it without the pistons.

I know you will have lots of questions. But as i'm laid up I will try and answer quickly. Keep safe everyone its not a nice world at the moment.
Could you give a bit more detail on exactly what you did to move the clocks forward please?
 
Could you give a bit more detail on exactly what you did to move the clocks forward please?
Bit difficult to explain. But if you remove the countersunk screw from under the clocks and carefully move them to one side it reviels the mounting bracket which is in two halves clamped around the handlebar. undue the 2 5mm screws holding that together and take the clamp off, turn it around and clamp it back on again (but you need to grind off a couple of lugs on the clamp to get it to rotate to where you want it.
 
Bit difficult to explain. But if you remove the countersunk screw from under the clocks and carefully move them to one side it reviels the mounting bracket which is in two halves clamped around the handlebar. undue the 2 5mm screws holding that together and take the clamp off, turn it around and clamp it back on again (but you need to grind off a couple of lugs on the clamp to get it to rotate to where you want it.
Thank you Richard
 
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