TTS Blower spigot query

[Pedro]

I have broken a bolt in the crank.you dont want to go there. i can tell you. Richard is talking about WURTH brand green lock tight ,Hight strength. dont get this wrong. Locktite green is light strength OR Shaft green. it will never come apart.

 

[ruzzle]

Sorry, I wasn't clear! He said ON THE SHANK of the bolt, not the thread. Purely as a vibration damper....

 

[warp9.9]

Space, in order to truly indicat it you have to have the front cover off so the bearing in it has no affect in alignment. Otherwise it will give you a false reading and be flexing at the crank face. After a while of the flexing the bolt will break and posible crack or break the crank. With the cams out and the timing chain off the drive gear you can bolt the spigot and the Pulley/shive on and indicate the OD of both spigot and Pulley or the spigot OD and the face of the pulley. You can have someone rotate the engine by leaving it in gear and rolling the rear wheel. Its some work but but use this time to check the valve clearances and reshim if needed.

 

[space]

Thanks for that Warp.

I think the original issue was that the bore of the spigot didn't appear to be ground after it was hardened, whence the stud wouldn't fit all the way through. Anyway we've got it sorted now (I hope!!). Thanks everyone.

 

[warp9.9]

Good to here I use Blue Loctite medium strength thread locker on mine and must of had the bolt in and out at least 20 times over the years I have had the blower on. The key is good maintenance of the crank hole I always run a tap thru and clean out old loctitie and use brake cleaner to clean the hole. Any oil left in it will inhibit the Loctite from its function.

 

[RICHARD ALBANS]

Hi. Why didn't you contact me. Something is miss machined somewhere. The Studs are made by ARP after we had some trouble with a few broken studs we went for the strongest, at great expense. The studs have rolled threads so there will be a slight increase in diameter at the bottom of the thread next to the shank. Now it could be that the stud you have has excess in that area and can simply be polished off so you get a nice slide fit into the spigot. What diameter is it at that point. I will check the combinations of what I have in stock. See if we have any other interference problems. If you have used our new jigs, you must have the thread square so you won't have any future problems. The fracture problem was down to inaccurately drilled and tapped threads and we have that covered now. The stud is a total over kill. I will come back with my findings on my remaining stock

 

[ruzzle]

If you have used our new jigs, you must have the thread square .....

Richard, in post #7 above, he said there were no guides/jigs with the kit......

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[RICHARD ALBANS]

Thanks, missed that. I need to know who this is and how long ago we sold the kit. We have been sending out jigs for some time. He needs to contact me.

 

[ruzzle]

Richard - check your PMs.....

 

[RICHARD ALBANS]

Parts sent

When we send a kit out we photograph the parts before we pack so there is no question as to what was sent. This is Keath's. As you can see on the bottom right we sent the jigs to drill and tap the crank. It also shows a m10 bolt next to the taps and drill etc We now use a ARP stud, nut and washer, so I will ship this out to him to update the kit,free of charge obviously. If the bolt is tight in the spigot then I would suggest that the thread is not 100% square in the end of the crank and he uses the tool again and runs the tap down once more. The thread and bolt are a total over kill.