Thinking about buying a Rocket

They're tidy. I did look recently for a set of pipes to butcher. But all way too expensive - all of a sudden they're like Racking Horse manure.

I have a neighbour with a Mig set - and he's a welder by trade too. ;)
 
They're tidy. I did look recently for a set of pipes to butcher. But all way too expensive - all of a sudden they're like Racking Horse manure.

I have a neighbour with a Mig set - and he's a welder by trade too. ;)

barbagis,
sorry I did forget to mention the bleeding obvious. I did take them off my bike to do the job.
By the way, I lost a baffle when I was testing it, riding around the block as I didn't put the screw in to secure the baffle, so I had to make a new one. Luckily I had enough unused baffle to do the job.
I also discovered the bike cannot run without a baffle, it coughs and farts when decelerating and significantly looses power. Sorry Mate, you probably know this already but just in case, I thought I'd let you know.

If you decide to do it. Please let me know and at the time I'll be happy to write out some detailed step by step procedure.

Good Luck.
 
I got to test ride a 2010 Roadster Saturday. There were a couple things I noticed. This bike, as well as the R3T model I test rode last weekend popped during deceleration. Is that something that's common with these bikes, or is it a tuning issue? Also, the front footpegs/controls location is a little too high, and little too far rearward for my liking. I don't know how you would be able to relocate them further forward as the rear brake assembly, and the shifter would also have to move, but are there any companies that make a relocation kit? If not, is it possible to mount floor boards on the front of the bar the footpegs are mounted on? Neither issue would be a deal breaker for me, and I suppose I would get used to the position of the pegs...the popping on decel is a bit annoying though. I was always told popping on decel indicates a fuel to air ratio that is too lean.

Overall, I like the Roadster, and I like it better than the R3T, but I have to say, neither model felt that much more powerful than my 109. I know it is, but it doesn't feel like it. It does have more torque, especially at low RPMs, but overall, WOT acceleration wise, it doesn't feel much faster, and it certainly never felt like it was going to break traction, or pull the front wheel off the ground as some have said it does. That is also not a huge deal to me as this bike's mission will be to replace my 109 with similar performance, while being a better 2 up platform. I believe the R3R is that bike. I won't be buying this particular R3R as it didn't appear to be taken care of very well. It only had 2600 miles on it, but it had 2 dents in the tank, multiple scuffs all over the bike, and some of the chrome has started to pit. I will never understand how people can have such a beautiful machine and not take care of it. My mission now is to get my 109 sold....then the fun begins...
 
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I can't help with the peg relocation info, but I will say that the R3T is detuned from the factory and will go MUCH better with a proper tune in it, and even betterer with some decent pipes and filters. The Roadster will also improve with the above mods, but it would be more noticeable on the R3T.
 
I got to test ride a 2010 Roadster Saturday. There were a couple things I noticed. This bike, as well as the R3T model I test rode last weekend popped during deceleration. Is that something that's common with these bikes, or is it a tuning issue? Also, the front footpegs/controls location is a little too high, and little too far rearward for my liking. I don't know how you would be able to relocate them further forward as the rear brake assembly, and the shifter would also have to move, but are there any companies that make a relocation kit? If not, is it possible to mount floor boards on the front of the bar the footpegs are mounted on? Neither issue would be a deal breaker for me, and I suppose I would get used to the position of the pegs...the popping on decel is a bit annoying though. I was always told popping on decel indicates a fuel to air ratio that is too lean.

Overall, I like the Roadster, and I like it better than the R3T, but I have to say, neither model felt that much more powerful than my 109. I know it is, but it doesn't feel like it. It does have more torque, especially at low RPMs, but overall, WOT acceleration wise, it doesn't feel much faster, and it certainly never felt like it was going to break traction, or pull the front wheel off the ground as some have said it does. That is also not a huge deal to me as this bike's mission will be to replace my 109 with similar performance, while being a better 2 up platform. I believe the R3R is that bike. I won't be buying this particular R3R as it didn't appear to be taken care of very well. It only had 2600 miles on it, but it had 2 dents in the tank, multiple scuffs all over the bike, and some of the chrome has started to pit. I will never understand how people can have such a beautiful machine and not take care of it. My mission now is to get my 109 sold....then the fun begins...

Decel popping is normal. Some people like it, others don't. Most tuners can reduce it significantly by adjusting the off-throttle AF ratios, but it's not harming anything. In 2010, Triumph moved the Roadster footpegs back and down. If you prefer them forward and up, you should see if you can test ride a pre-2010 model with the original ergos. If you were WOT in 1st and didn't get the wheel up, you either weigh more than the bike and are leaning way over the tank, or something's wrong with the bike!
 
Decel popping is normal. Some people like it, others don't. Most tuners can reduce it significantly by adjusting the off-throttle AF ratios, but it's not harming anything. In 2010, Triumph moved the Roadster footpegs back and down. If you prefer them forward and up, you should see if you can test ride a pre-2010 model with the original ergos. If you were WOT in 1st and didn't get the wheel up, you either weigh more than the bike and are leaning way over the tank, or something's wrong with the bike!

The way this bike looked cosmetically, I wouldn't be surprised if there was something wrong with it...
 
Welcome Grampi, you can install forward foot controls from a standard or RAASK make an adjustable set. The R3R would be the choice because it is a great platform o then custom fit how you want it. Mechanically the same as the R3C and R3S with some rider position changes and cosmetic changes but with all the updates.
 
Grampi the decel pop on this bike is completely normal and I happen to like it. At first I wasn't sure if it was normal but it appears to be just fine and not a tuning issue. I have come to like the sound it reminds me of a Porsche or sport car when letting off the clutch downshifting

The pegs I can be sure you would get used to them like most people have to. I have to every I time I ride it after riding my sportier st1300 and vice versa. If you get the bars or a set of highway pegs installed you can have the best of both worlds foot position wise!

The acceleration the bike currently have may not seem as good as the 9 in some aspects but other things like the quality of the bike and smoothness of it definitely are selling points. It has awesome 2 up capabilities. If you must have more performance people here have 240hp upgrades that will satisfy your needs and still be totally rosdworthy and reliable too!
 
Welcome Grampi, you can install forward foot controls from a standard or RAASK make an adjustable set. The R3R would be the choice because it is a great platform o then custom fit how you want it. Mechanically the same as the R3C and R3S with some rider position changes and cosmetic changes but with all the updates.

I will check out the RAASK set...thanks.
 
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